Wine Advisor FoodLetter: Baby artichokes

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 Baby artichokes I love artichokes, but they're a pain to prepare. These cute babies make it a little easier.
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Artichokes Baby artichokes

I love artichokes. I love the way they taste, and I love the way they look, piled high in mounds of green, softball-size spheres in the grocery store.

When they're in season - a season that modern transportation has extended far beyond the traditional March through May and again in October - I can't resist buying 'em by the sack.

But then they usually languish until they turn black and have to be discarded, because once I've got them in the fridge, they seem too much trouble to deal with. All that peeling, all that cutting! Most of the thing goes to waste, and you've got to fight that awful fuzzy middle bit that's so appropriately named "choke."

Maybe I should simply resist my artichoke craving until I can get to an Italian or Greek restaurant and pay them to do it right. But still I persevere, throwing away a lot of perfectly good artichokes or giving it up and making them the easy, old-fashioned way, simmering them until soft, then chewing the meaty bites off the bottoms of the leaves with some kind of '60s-style chip dip.

This week, though, confronted with a particularly appealing display of tiny baby artichokes not much bigger than lemons, I had a breakthrough. Remembering to my joy that these undersize babies are relatively easy to prep because they don't have an inedible "choke" or nearly so many tough leaves, I came up with a memorable pasta dish that brings together artichokes and tiny new potatoes and more goodies from the garden.

And best of all, it didn't take all day to turn those thorny green balls into tender, savory bites.

I'm indebted to the California Artichoke Advisory Board for a useful set of instructions - with photos - that makes prepping artichokes relatively easy, and also for providing me the useful information that the artichoke is a kind of Mediterranean thistle, related to the sunflower, and that the part we eat is really the flower. Or that artichokes - not unlike shrimp - are graded by size, from petite (72 to a carton) to jumbo (18 to a carton). The things we learn on the Internet.

In Italy, artichokes are considered a great appetizer because they supposedly make whatever food they're served with seem sweet. For this reason, they're also allegedly difficult to match with wine. I can't say I've ever found this a problem, though, and certainly this dish went down easily with a crisp, dry Prosecco. It makes a fine meatless summer dinner, taking full advantage of the garden's bounty.

INGREDIENTS: (Serves two)

6 small artichokes
Water
1/2 lemon
1 teaspoon (5g) salt
6 small red or white new potatoes
1/2 cup (120g) chopped onion
1 or 2 large cloves garlic
3 fresh plum tomatoes
4 ounces (120g) farfalle (butterfly pasta)
2 tablespoons (30g) olive oil
Salt
Black pepper
1/4 cup Pecorino Romano cheese
12 leaves fresh basil

PROCEDURE:

1. Prepare the artichokes. For a useful how-to guide, see the procedure and photos featured in steps 14 through 18 ("[Completely Edible] Baby Artichokes") on the California Artichoke Advisory Board's Website at http://artichokes.org/basic_prep.html. Snap off all the outer petals at the base until you get down to the tender yellowish leaves inside; then cut off and discard the tough green top and the stem. Cut the remaining heart vertically into quarters, scraping off any fuzzy "choke" in the center (in baby artichokes, there shouldn't be much, if any). Put the cut pieces into a saucepan half-filled with cool water "acidulated" with the juice of 1/2 lemon so they won't discolor.

2. Slice the potatoes fairly thin, about 1/4 inch or 0.6cm (there's no need to peel them) and place them in the same water with the artichokes.

3. Add 1 teaspoon salt to the water in the pan with the artichokes and potatoes. Bring the vegetables to a boil, then reduce heat and cook at a gentle simmer for 10 minutes or less, checking frequently; when the potatoes and artichoke hearts are just crisp-tender, drain and "shock" them with cold water so they won't cook further.

4. While the vegetables are simmering, chop the onion coarsely and mince the garlic fine. Peel and seed the plum tomatoes and cut them into chunks. Slice the basil leaves into a fine chiffonade and set aside.

5. Start the pasta cooking in boiling salted water. While it boils, sautee the chopped onions and garlic in the olive oil until they're translucent. Add the cooked artichokes and potatoes and stir gently, to avoid breaking up the vegetables, until they just start to brown. Put in the tomatoes and, if necessary, just enough water to keep things from sticking. Season with salt and pepper to taste and keep warm over low heat. When the pasta is finished, drain it and mix it in with the vegetables. Serve in warm bowls, topped with grated Pecorino Romano and the basil chiffonade.

MATCHING WINE:
I don't see the artichokes marrying well with a red, but this should work well with a fuller-bodied white from Southern Italy or the Rhone; it was brilliant with a Northern Italian bubbly, the Bortolotti Valdobbiadene Prosecco featured in the July 17 30 Second Wine Advisor.

DISCUSS COOKING IN OUR ONLINE FORUMS:
If you have questions, comments or ideas to share about this recipe or food and cookery in general, you're welcome to drop by our online FoodLovers Discussion Group, where I've posted this article as a new topic.
http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewtopic.php?t=2291

It's also cross-posted in the Food & Drink section in our Netscape/CompuServe WineLovers Community,
http://community.netscape.com/winelovers?nav=messages&tsn=1&tid=4628

If you prefer to comment privately, feel free to send me E-mail at wine@wineloverspage.com.

PRINT OUT A COPY OF THIS ARTICLE:
Want a copy that's easy to use in the kitchen? You'll find a simple, plain-text version of this recipe, suitable for printing, online at
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/print060720.html


Last Week's FoodLetter and Archives

Last week's Wine Advisor FoodLetter: Savory blueberry sauce (July 13, 2006)
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/tsfl060713.phtml

Wine Advisor FoodLetter archive:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/foodlist.phtml

30 Second Wine Advisor archive:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/thelist.shtml


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If you have suggestions or comments about The 30 Second Wine Advisor's FoodLetter, or if you would like to suggest a topic for a coming edition and recipe, please drop me a note at wine@wineloverspage.com. I really enjoy hearing from you, and I try to give a personal reply to all mail if I possibly can. And of course you're always welcome to join the conversations with fellow foodies on our online FoodLovers Discussion Group,
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Thursday, Juky 20, 2006
Copyright 2006 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.

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