Wine Advisor FoodLetter: Slow-roasted steak

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 Slow-roasted steak Forget everything you think you know about searing beef with a blast of fire: This low-and-slow alternative yields remarkable results.
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Slow-roasted steak

Perhaps it's just the hunter-gatherer instinct buried somewhere very deeply in my male psyche, but whenever I cook meat, I feel a compelling need to submit it to the primal fire. Sear a steak with a blast of heat from a red-hot iron skillet or charcoal grill, or slam it into an 800F oven (well, OK, 450 anyway). Listen to it sizzle, hear me roar, see me ripping great bloody chunks from the dripping carcass ... but I digress.

In fact, here's a gentle, mellow way: Forget everything I just said about searing beef with a blast of fire: I'm newly smitten with an offbeat low-and-slow alternative that yields remarkable results.

I encountered the procedure in Chef Michael Schlow's "It's About Time, Great Recipes for Everyday Life," a cookbook that Amazon.com, perceiving my recent fascination with Mario Batali's cookbooks, advised me that I would probably like, too. I fooled them by checking the recommended item out of the public library rather than buying it, but they were right: It's a pretty good book, featuring a series of menus based on Schlow's rather diffuse theory about cooking and time, some of them designed to prepare when you're in a hurry, others intended for those days when you want to relax and spend hours in the kitchen.

Schlow's "slow-roasted steak" doesn't take hours, but the gentle process requires a lot longer than slapping a steak into a searing skillet just long enough to tan its hide. "Most chefs and cookbooks instruct that meat should be seared at very slow temperatures, then cooked at high heat and allowed to rest before serving," writes Schlow, who is chef of Boston's highly regarded Radius restaurant and several others. "I could not disagree more. I think true success comes from cooking meats slowly, at very low temperatures."

I had my doubts, but it happens that I had picked up a beautiful natural rib eye the same day I got the book from the library, a coincidence too fateful to ignore. So I gave it a try, and to my pleased surprise, it was one of the best steaks I ever ate. Although the slow process doesn't build that deliciously crunchy and caramelized seared exterior, the fresh herbs and rich butter (just a dab of it, really) more than made up for that. And the interior was incredible, tender as cream cheese and a beautiful hot pink all the way through.

I somewhat modified the recipe ... I just can't help doing that. But the procedure is faithful to Schlow's technique. More or less.

INGREDIENTS: (Serves two)

1 rib eye steak, 12 to 16 ounces (350-500g)
Sprig fresh thyme
Sprig fresh rosemary
Salt
Black pepper
1 tablespoon (15ml) olive oil
1 tablespoon (15g) butter

PROCEDURE:

1. Preheat the oven to a slow 300F (150C).

2. Chop the thyme and rosemary - you should end up with about 1 tablespoon of chopped herbs. Salt and pepper the steak.

3. Put the olive oil in an iron skillet and put it over medium heat for just a minute or so ... counter-intuitively, you do not want to sear the meat. In fact, writes Schlow, "it shouldn't even sizzle." Put in the seasoned steak, and cook it gently for just one minute on each side. Sprinkle on about half the herbs, melt the butter in the pan, and turn the steak once or twice, adding the rest of the herbs, until it's nicely coated on both sides with butter and herbs.

4. Put the steak on a wire rack in a shallow roasting pan. If there's any butter and herbs remaining in the skillet, pour them on top of the steak. Roast at 300F for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the temperature at the center of the steak reads 120F (50C); it should feel very soft to a finger touch. Remove it from the oven and allow to stand for 5 to 10 minutes before serving; the temperature will rise with carry-over heating to a perfect rare.

WINE MATCH: Bring out your best red wine for this beauty. It was a delight with a spectacularly good California item, Delectus 2001 Napa Valley Stanton Vineyard Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon from California Wine Club's Connoisseurs' Series.

BUY THE BOOK ONLINE:
If your public library doesn't have Chef Michael Schlow's "It's About Time, Great Recipes for Everyday Life," you can buy it from Amazon.com in hardcover for $22.05, a 37 percent discount. Purchases made using this exact link,
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1586420879/robingarrswineloA/
will return a small commission to us at WineLoversPage.com.

DISCUSS COOKING IN OUR ONLINE FORUMS:
If you have questions, comments or ideas to share about this recipe or food and cookery in general, you're welcome to drop by either of our interactive forums, where I've posted this article as a new topic, "Babbo."

If you have basic how-to questions, you might enjoy the teaching environment of the Food & Drink section in our online WineLovers Community,
http://community.netscape.com/winelovers?nav=messages&tsn=1&tid=4177

If you're a serious "foodie" or interested in peer support as you move into more advanced culinary realms, check out the same topic in our FoodLovers Discussion Group, where you'll find today's article at
http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewtopic.php?p=3813#3813

Finally, if you prefer to comment privately, feel free to send me E-mail at wine@wineloverspage.com.

PRINT OUT A COPY OF THIS ARTICLE:
Want a copy that's easy to use in the kitchen? You'll find a simple, plain-text version of this recipe, suitable for printing, online at
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/print060413.html


Last Week's FoodLetter and Archives

Last week's Wine Advisor FoodLetter: Defending Mario (April 6, 2006)
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/tsfl060406.phtml

Wine Advisor FoodLetter archive:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/foodlist.phtml

30 Second Wine Advisor archive:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/thelist.shtml


Let us hear from you!

If you have suggestions or comments about The 30 Second Wine Advisor's FoodLetter, or if you would like to suggest a topic for a coming edition and recipe, please drop me a note at wine@wineloverspage.com. I really enjoy hearing from you, and I try to give a personal reply to all mail if I possibly can.

Of course you also have a standing invitation to participate in our interactive online communities. To participate in these friendly online discussion groups, simply click to
http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewforum.php?f=5
for the FoodLovers Discussion Group, which is somewhat focused on more advanced food-and-drink discussions and culinary issues. For more fundamental how-to advice and questions, visit the Food & Drink folder in the WineLovers Community on Netscape,
http://community.netscape.com/winelovers


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Thursday, April 13, 2006
Copyright 2006 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.

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