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 California Wine Club
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In This Issue
 Wine at the movies Move over, Sideways: Here comes Mondovino.
 Avila Winery 2001 Santa Barbara County "Cote d'Avila" ($13) An interesting red from Sideways country, no Pinot but a Rhone-style red blend.
 California Wine Club International Series - New Zealand!
 This week on A debate on wine Websites that require an age check.
Last Week's Wine Advisor Index The Wine Advisor archives.
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Mondovino Wine at the movies

Move over, Sideways: Here comes Mondovino.

The second movie of the year with a strong wine-related focus, Mondovino ("World of wine") is no clone of Alexander Payne's award-winning dark comedy about two over-served wine enthusiasts touring the Santa Barbara wine country in search of wine and women, never mind the song.

Although the Mondovino producers aren't loath to publicize the film's upcoming (July 12) DVD release with a blurb from Vogue declaring it "A brilliant extended footnote to Sideways," the only real connection between the two movies is that they both have a lot to do with wine.

But you don't have to be a serious wine "geek" to enjoy Sideways, while I would assert that anyone who is not deeply into wine and wine-industry trends might find Mondovino an extended exercise in excruciating boredom. If you're sufficiently interested in wine to subscribe to this publication, however, I believe you'll find Mondovino very interesting indeed. I thought the 2-hour, 15-minute film just flew. My long-suffering bride, on the other hand, fell asleep in the middle of it and said it was "interesting but way too long."

Directed and filmed by Jonathan Nossiter, an American expatriate indie filmmaker who lives in France and loves wine, it's an extended non-fiction documentary filled with talking heads (who talk in at least five languages, most of them subtitled) and only the occasional wine-country scene, all of it filmed in a jerky hand-held-camera style that's trendy but that might foster carsickness.

In short, it's the kind of narrow-interest niche film that its cult followers (like me) will play over and over again, but so obscure that it played in theaters in only a handful of selected markets in the U.S. I didn't get to see it in Louisville until I was able to wangle a special videotape from the producers so I could preview the DVD edition, which will become available to anyone who wants it on July 12.

Mondovino's theme, briefly told, is globalization in the world wine business, and the tension between internationalists, "flying wine makers," big-name wine critics, industrial producers and artisanal wine makers (some earthy peasants, some quite well off), expressed in quick-cut interviews filmed in an "arty" style that features close-up facial shots that linger on every wart and crease, plus lots of cutaways to dogs (including Robert M. Parker Jr.'s flatulent bulldog), an odd leitmotif that becomes almost surreal after a while.

Nossiter's method is more like Michael Moore than Alexander Payne, using selectively edited interview clips to nudge the viewer toward a conclusion ... he's clearly no proponent of globalization and admires the philosophy and effort of small, local producers (as, in fact, do I). But Mondovino is hardly polemic. Nossiter's editing clearly casts "flying wine maker" Michel Rolland as a massive ego; Parker as a suburbanite at home with his dogs; Wine Spectator's James Suckling as a languid sybarite enjoying la dolce vita with Italian friends; California's Mondavis as an Italian-American family turned multinational corporation; Napa's Staglins as Stepford dot-com yuppies, and wealthy Italian nobles-turned-winemakers as crypto-Fascists pining for Mussolini. But the slant is much more subtle than, say, Fahrenheit 9/11, and Nossiter leaves plenty of room for intelligent viewers to draw their own conclusions.

My conclusion: If you're looking for a hard-hitting investigative piece that asks tough questions and unveils the smoking gun, you won't find it here; nor will you be impressed if you're in the mood for a barrel-of-laughs wine comedy like Sideways. But if you're interested enough in the wine business to care whether artisanal wine making gradually dies out in a globalizing economy, or whether Michel Rolland encourages his client producers to make standardized international wines that mask terroir, or whether Parker and Wine Spectator accelerate the trend by promoting such wines, then you will find Mondovino well worth the price of admission.

Interested? You can order the Mondovino DVD now from, to be shipped on the July 12 release date, for $20.99, a 30 percent saving from the $29.99 list price. (Purchases made using this exact link will pay a small commission to

Meanwhile, you may recall that a couple of months ago we hosted a Sideways DVD contest in which I invited readers to bid for a free DVD by trying to tickle my fancy or my funnybone with a good reason why you should win. We ended up with more than 250 entries from more than 200 countries, from the U.S. across the English-speaking world and Europe to India, China and Vietnam. As a result of this outpouring, it took longer than planned to sort through them all. But I'm pleased to announce that the winners have been notified; the DVD's, I'm told, are in the mail from the producer, and the winners have all granted permission to post their names and their submissions online. If you'd like to read them, check our new Sideways DVD winners page,

If you haven't seen Sideways yet, or if you'd like your own copy so you can watch Virginia Madsden orate about Pinot any time you like, now offers it for just $19.49, a full 35 percent saving from the $29.98 list price. (Purchases made using this exact link will pay a small commission to

Here's a simply formatted copy of today's Wine Advisor, designed to be printed out for your scrapbook or file or downloaded to your PDA or other wireless device.

Several current topics on our Wine Lovers' Discussion group focus on wine and the cinema. In one interesting topic, a reader invited participants to talk about their favorite wine-related movies other than Sideways and Mondovino. See "Movies on Wine,"

The other night, I posted a quick stream-of-consciousness report after watching Mondovino (an off-the-cuff commentary from which I drew some of the observations in today's article). It attracted some interesting responses, which you'll find online at "Mondovino!",

If you'd like to ask a question or comment on today's topic (or any other wine-related subject), you'll find a round-table online discussion in our interactive Wine Lovers' Discussion Group, where you're always welcome to join in the conversations about wine.

If you prefer to comment privately, feel free to send me E-mail at I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

In the spirit of today's talk about wine and the movies, here's a tasty wine with an international flair and a French-American accent, made from Rhone-style grapes in California's Sideways country.

Avila Avila Winery 2001 Santa Barbara County "Cote d'Avila" ($13)

This Rhone-style blend of Syrah (65%), Mourvedre (20%) and Grenache (15%) is an inky dark reddish-violet color in the glass, almost black at the center. Ripe berry fruit aromas gain interest from grace notes of menthol and anise over a discreet background of green herbs and brown spice. Mouth-filling, "sweet" black fruit hints at time in oak in a full flavor that's a bit on the lush side but shows plenty of fresh-fruit acidity to hold it together, fading to a lemon-squirt tang in a long finish. (June 21, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: It worked well with a hearty preparation of pork chops braised with onions and garlic, and would serve with any red meat, even burgers from the picnic grill.

VALUE: Good balance and interesting complexity make it a good buy in the lower teens.

WHEN TO DRINK: No hurry to drink it - it will keep on the wine rack for a year or two - but it's not really a candidate for long-term cellaring.

Here's a link to the producer's Website; the producer also offers a toll-free telephone number in the U.S., 1-888-809-VINE.

Compare prices and seek vendors for Avila Cote d'Avila on

California Wine Club
California Wine Club:
International Series - New Zealand!

The California Wine Club's International Series is thrilled to bring you their newest arrival from New Zealand! The Soljans Estate Winery is featured this month with two luscious selections. Try a 2003 "North Island" Merlot/Cab/Malbec: This red blend is chock-full of cherries, cedar and vanillin notes. The "signature" wine of this small country, achieving huge success in the glass, is evident in the 2004 "Marlborough" Sauvignon Blanc where floral aromas lead to riotous tropical fruit flavors.

Join now ... call 1-800-777-4443 in the U.S., or visit online,

This week on

Here are links to some of our recently published articles that I think you'll enjoy:

Forum hot topic: Wine Websites that ask your age
Many drinks-related Websites require the visitor to declare his age before granting access. Is this policy of requiring an age check to READ about wine a sensible precaution, or a silly excess of legal caution? Read the debate and add your comments in the Wine Lovers' Discussion Group:

Last Week's Wine Advisor Index

The Wine Advisor's daily edition is usually distributed on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays (and, for those who subscribe, the FoodLetter on Thursdays). Here's the index to last week's columns:

 A visit with John Given (June 24, 2005)

 Field blend (June 22, 2005)

 Controversial 2003 (June 20, 2005)

 Complete 30 Second Wine Advisor archive:

 Wine Advisor FoodLetter: Roman fava beans (June 23, 2004)

 Wine Advisor Foodletter archive:

 30 Second Wine Advisor, daily or weekly (free)
 Wine Advisor FoodLetter, Thursdays (free)
 Wine Advisor Premium Edition, alternate Tuesdays ($24/year)

For all past editions, click here


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Monday, June 27, 2005
Copyright 2005 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.

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