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This article was published in The 30 Second Wine Advisor on Monday, Jan. 26, 2009 and can be found at http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/tswa20090126.php. Historic Rioja Reserva
Coming back from a winter week off from publication and finding snow, sleet and maybe a little ice in the forecast, I'm thinking that it was a good choice for us to name Rioja the topic for our Wine Focus for January. Rioja is a stylish but warming red, and it goes well with the kind of roasts, steaks and chops that make a warming feast on the winter table. As we move into the last week of January, we'll take a look at a couple more Riojas before moving on to next month's topic. Later in the week, we'll uncork a relatively low-priced Rioja from a major producer. Today, let's go a little more upscale for a Reserva from a historic producer. As noted below, its price point (just under $30 for me locally, a bit less in some parts of the world) is a bit spendy for everyday drinking, especially in recessionary times. But it's a mighty fine wine with a classy pedigree. We're tasting Marqués de Riscal Rioja Reserva, the latter term meaning that it must spend at least a year in oak bottles followed by additional aging time in bottles. This 2004 vintage, in fact, was bottled only last year, based on a "Julian date" code on the back label. Riscal, according to the British wine scribe Hugh Johnson, is the oldest Rioja producer still in business, dating back to 1860. It boasts a touch of French in its heritage and remains one of the few Rioja wineries permitted to use Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend along with Rioja's Tempranillo and secondary Spanish grapes. Johnson says Riscal has 49 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in its vineyards and uses an average of 15 percent of the French grape in its Reservas, although this proportion can vary widely from year to year. It's no Bordeaux clone, nor would I expect it to be. But it's a classic, characteristic Rioja of depth and elegance, showing bright cherry fruit, tart acidity and a touch of earth in its currently youthful state. You'll find my notes below. It's simple to participate in Wine Focus. For this month's program, taste a Rioja, or several, and take notes. Then click to our Wine Focus forum in our WineLovers Discussion Groups with your tasting report, comments and questions: Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.
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