This article was published in The 30 Second Wine Advisor on Friday, May. 23, 2008 and can be found at http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/tswa20080523.php.
But it's hard to keep a good wine down, and thanks to the efforts of quality producers like Gini, Pieropan and quite a few more, Soave has regained its place of pride on many wine enthusiasts' tables.
Today's featured wine, from the tiny Veneto producer Agostino and Emanuele Vicentini and imported by the always-reliable John Given Wines Co., is a particularly stylish Soave. Made from a blend of 80 percent Soave's native Garganega grape and 20 percent Trebbiano di Soave, it blends classic Soave citrus and stone with warmer hints of tropical fruit in a complex and interesting mix.
Vicentini 2005 "Terre Lunghe" Soave ($13.99)
Clear pale gold, bright glints against the light. Fresh tropical fruit, fig, date and pineapple aromas, more subtle than in-your-face but very pleasant. On the palate it's more about citrus, tangy but not tart, Meyer lemon and a streak of stony minerality that turns into a pleasant peach-pit bitter note in the finish. Complex and interesting, will reset your attitude if you think of Soave as a simple and one-dimensional white. U.S. importer: John Given Wines Co., Manhasset, N.Y. (March 5, 2008)
FOOD MATCH: A versatile white-wine match with poultry, pork or fish, it was fine with a simple turkey stew.
VALUE: A fine value in the lower teens; available in some markets for a dollar or two less.
WHEN TO DRINK: Soave is best enjoyed while it's young and fresh. This 2005 is still fine, but it's not a candidate for the cellar.
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