30 Second Wine Advisor: Wine and deli?
Today's Sponsors
 The California Wine Club's Customer Appreciation Week!
Take 10% off any order with The California Wine Club

 Monterey Wine Auction & Gala
Join us for our 5th Annual Passport Weekend!

In This Issue
 Wine and deli? Who doesn't like a deli sandwich ... Corned beef, hot pastrami, beef tongue or chopped chicken liver. But why do we so rarely hear of anyone accompanying it with wine?
 The California Wine Club's Customer Appreciation Week! Take 10% off any order with The California Wine Club
 Domaine de Nizas 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc ($14.99)
Typical of its region, it's fruity, acidic, softly tannic and touched with more than a whiff of earthy "barnyard" aromas.
 Monterey Wine Auction & Gala Join us for our 5th Annual Passport Weekend!
Administrivia Change E-mail address, frequency, format or unsubscribe.

 Wine Video Watch
 Learn about our RSS Feed

Wine and deli?

Who doesn't like a deli sandwich, at least every now and then? Corned beef, hot pastrami, beef tongue or chopped chicken liver; maybe a little lox? Pile it high on thick, seeded rye bread, add a fat dill pickle, and you've got enough lunch to fill you up right through dinner.

I learned to love the stuff as a wide-eyed teen-ager from Kentucky in Queens and the Bronx, discovering gustatory wonders that I had never known existed. And it's still hard for me to go back to NYC without at least sampling a deli or two (preferably something real like Second Avenue or Katz's, not your Midtown tourist destinations). And every now and then, even if my home town of Louisville can produce only a wan replica of the real thing from Gotham, I'll succumb to a craving and bring home a big bag full of the good stuff.

One thing about NYC kosher-style deli, though: In contrast with its equally delicious if less exotic (at least to me) cousin Italian deli, you rarely hear of anyone accompanying it with wine.

As a dedicated wine lover who believes that most food goes better with wine (and vice versa), this makes no sense to me. So, the other night, suiting action to words, I brought home a hefty pastrami-on-rye and started thinking about a bottle to match.

What would work? Let's face it, kosher-style deli meat is fatty - this is part of its succulent appeal - so an acidic wine would be mandatory, providing a palate-cleansing edge to cut through the grease. Pastrami is as salty as the ham that it emulates without violating the principles set down in Leviticus, so it needs a robust yet quenching wine. And it's beef, so it really needs a hearty red, with no marks taken off for tannic astringency. A hint of earth would do no harm, particularly in the presence of an enticing schmear of hot mustard.

We're zeroing in on the Rhone, Provence and Languedoc here, and - since it's also the subject of our monthly Wine Focus in our online forums this month - I reached out for the Languedoc, uncorking a robust, earthy Syrah-dominant blend with some Mourvedre and a splash of Grenache.

Bingo! The Domaine de Nizas 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc made a perfect match, for all the reasons enumerated above. It would have worked as well, I think, with corned beef, tongue or even chopped chicken liver. I think I'd pass on it with lox, though, and as for that dill pickle, fahgeddabout it.

Domaine de Nizas is a relatively new producer, a collaboration of John Goelet and Bernard Portet, who founded Clos du Val in the Napa Valley in 1972. Goelet is also the owner of Taltarni Vineyards in Australia, where Portet's brother Dominique was the founding wine maker. They've planted about 120 acres in Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc.

In this 2001 at least, they've come up with a very good, very typical Coteaux du Languedoc. It's fruity, acidic, softly tannic and touched with more than a whiff of earthy "barnyard" aromas. And it goes great with hot pastrami. My tasting notes are below.

To compare notes and post your own reports on Coteaux du Languedoc reds this month, point your browser to the Wine Focus section of the WineLovers Discussion Group,

Today's Sponsor

California Wine Club
The California Wine Club's Customer Appreciation Week!

Take 10% off any order with The California Wine Club.

Through the years The California Wine Club has experienced tremendous support from WineLoverPage.com readers and its 30 Second Wine Advisor subscribers. To thank you, The California Wine Club will take an extra 10 percent off any purchases you make through Feb. 9.

Need to send a gift? Reorder a favorite wine or try a new club? Do it now and save 10 percent.

Simply call 1-800-777-4443 or visit www.cawineclub.com. Be sure to use PROMO CODE: Appreciate!

Offer ends Feb. 9, 2007. Sorry, discount can not be given on previously placed orders.

Domaine de Nizas Domaine de Nizas 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc ($14.99)

A traditional blend of Syrah (60%), Mourvedre (35%) and a splash of Grenache (5%), this is an inky-dark reddish-purple wine, almost opaque in the glass. Black plums and dried herb aromas are typical of Languedoc reds, and for that matter, so is its healthy dose of earthy "barnyard." Tart and ripe in flavor, there's plenty of fruit left in this 6-year-old; good acidic balance, rather coarse tannins, and the Brettanomyces wild yeast that fosters the earthy flavors leaves its signature as a metallic twang in the finish. It's not for everyone, but for those - like me - who don't mind "Brett" in light doses in rustic Old World wines, it's fine, adding a layer of complexity. U.S. importer: Clos du Val Wine Co. Ltd., Napa, Calif. (Feb. 1, 2007)

FOOD MATCH: Its palate-cleansing acidity cuts through the fat while its earthy, tannic flavors stand up very nicely to deli hot pastrami with mustard on rye.

VALUE: Fairly priced, although I'd like to see it closer to $10. Shop around, as Wine-searcher.com vendors show it at an exceptionally wide range from $11 to $20.

WHEN TO DRINK: The fruit, acid and tannins say yes, cellar it until it mellows; but the brett says, er, hang on a minute. If you don't like that barnyardy character, don't expect it to get better with time in the bottle.

The Domaine de Nizas Website is published in both French and English. Click the national flag of your choice:

Look up vendors and compare prices for Domaine de Nizas Coteaux du Languedoc on Wine-Searcher.com:

Today's Sponsor

Monterey Wine Auction & Gala
Monterey Wine Auction & Gala

Entertainment, food and wine tasting are all a part of the 5th Annual Passport Weekend to be held Feb. 16-18, 2007. Passport Weekend will feature a worldwide flair as nearly 20 wine tasting rooms throughout Monterey County observe the culture, food, and entertainment from their selected country. Nearly 20 countries will be represented during this unique opportunity to travel the globe without even having to pack a suitcase!

The Passport Weekend is paired with the Monterey Wine Auction & Gala, which will feature extraordinary wine, lifestyle, and other one-of-a-kind packages. The wines will sparkle and the venue will dazzle you at this “Denim & Diamonds” themed event. The Gala will occur Saturday, February 17 at Holman Ranch. This is one of the first special events that will be held at the newly re-opened Holman Ranch.


To read and comment on today's column in our non-commercial WineLovers Discussion Group, click:

Today's article is cross-posted in our Netscape WineLovers Community, where we also welcome comments and questions.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Here's a simply formatted copy of today's Wine Advisor, designed to be printed out for your scrapbook or file or downloaded to your PDA or other wireless device.


To subscribe or unsubscribe from The 30 Second Wine Advisor, change your E-mail address, or for any other administrative matters, please use the individualized hotlink found at the end of your E-mail edition. If this is not practical, contact me by E-mail at wine@wineloverspage.com, including the exact E-mail address that you used when you subscribed, so I can find your record.

We do not use our E-mail list for any other purpose and will never give or sell your name or E-mail address to anyone. I welcome feedback, suggestions, and ideas for future columns. To contact me, please send E-mail to wine@wineloverspage.com

All the wine-tasting reports posted here are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores and accept no samples, gifts or other gratuities from the wine industry.

Friday, Feb. 2, 2007
Copyright 2007 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.

Subscribe to the 30 Second Wine Advisor

Wine Advisor archives