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In This Issue
 Affordable Spanish red Steer clear of the sought-after critical favorites, and Spain remains one of the world's best hunting grounds for wine quality and value.
 Bodegas Tikalo 2004 "Rubens" Tierra de Castilla Tempranillo ($10)
Jammy cherry-berry aromas and flavors suggest a "fruit bomb" at first, but spicy nuances and good texture round it out.
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Affordable Spanish red

Year in and year out, Spain remains one of my go-to countries for approachable table wines of fine quality and value. A leading wine region by any standard, Spain boasts more acres under vineyard than any other nation; and it ranks third in the world (behind France and Italy) in wine production.

From the bargain-seeker's standpoint, Spain stands out because of its extremes on the value spectrum. In the regions that the big-name critics have "discovered" - Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Priorat, in particular, and to some extent Galicia for its white Albariño - supply-and-demand inflation operates in full force, and good cheap wines are thin on the ground.

But move out into the less sought-after Spanish regions, from Jerez (Sherry) to Penedes to La Mancha to Calatayud to Castile, and you'll find a lake of affordable wine, some of it forgettable but much of it fine. Today's featured wine is an excellent example, from Tierra de Castilla ("Land of Castille," a designation akin to the French Vin de Pays).

Made by a large new producer, Bodegas Tikalo (founded in 2002), it's 100 percent Tempranillo, the flagship grape of Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Jammy and fruit-forward, it's a bit on the "international" side, but a touch spicy complexity and good acidic and tannic structure raise it well above the pack at this price point.

Rubens Bodegas Tikalo 2004 "Rubens" Tierra de Castilla Tempranillo ($10)

This very dark reddish-purple wine's jammy cherry-berry scent and its initially fruit-forward flavor starts it out with the sense of a "fruit bomb," but spice and smoke and good tart acidity add interest on the mid-palate, with soft tannins filling out its structure in a longish finish, making for an enjoyable and food-friendly wine of good value. U.S. importer: European Cellars Direct, NYC; an Eric Solomon Selection. (April 16, 2006)

FOOD MATCH: It's made to go with grilled red meat or poultry.

VALUE: A fine value for 10 bucks.

WHEN TO DRINK: Made for immediate enjoyment, not cellaring, but Tempranillo's a keeper, and this wine shouldn't fade in a year or two on the wine rack.

The Bodegas Tikalo website is published in seven languages - click the flag of your choice at the following link, but it's best to bring a high-speed connection and the Flash plug-in; there doesn't seem to be an accessible or low-speed connection available:

Find prices and online vendors for Bodegas Tikalo Rubens on

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Wednesday, May 10, 2006
Copyright 2006 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.

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