Today's Sponsor:
 California Wine Club
It's the Wine (and cheese!) at Van Ruiten Vineyards.

In This Issue
 WT101 - Rhone varieties in the USofA Our monthly wine-tasting education feature turns to the "Rhone Rangers."
 Vincent Dureuil-Janthial 2003 Bourgogne Aligoté ($25) This mouth-filling, fresh wine is made from Burgundy's other white grape.
 California Wine Club It's the Wine (and cheese!) at Van Ruiten Vineyards.
 This week on An in-depth look at the 2003 vintage for Vintage Port, and a forum discussion of volatile aromas in wine.
Last Week's Wine Advisor Index The Wine Advisor archives.
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WT101 - Rhone Varieties in the USofA

For 50 years or more, from the end of Prohibition until well into the 1980s, fine wine in California, and thus in most of the United States, was based almost entirely on a few great French grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir for the reds, and Sauvignon Blanc (often labeled "Fumé" Blanc) and Chardonnay for the whites.

Yes, a few old producers offered a quick bow to Italy with Barbera and Charbono; and of course there were those intriguing and only-in-America varieties Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. But when it came to the fancy stuff, if it didn't mirror the classic wines of Bordeaux or Burgundy, it just wasn't quite the thing.

But in the past 20 years or so, starting with a few maverick pioneers, a new varietal movement has come into the mainstream of American wine. Nicknamed the "Rhone Rangers" because their favored grapes come from the warmer climes of the Rhone Valley in Southern France, they've put the once-exotic names of grapes like Syrah (Australia's Shiraz), Grenache and Mourvedre, Marsanne and Roussanne and Viognier on just about every wine enthusiast's table.

For those of us who've loved these grapes in their French, American and Australian variations, it's a welcome development indeed, and one that is very well suited indeed for the climate and soils in much of the Golden State.

For this month's Wine Tasting 101, we feature Rhone Varieties in the USofA as our monthly topic, and welcome as our guest host the amiable nuclear physicist and wine writer Tom Hill, who's been following the development of California Rhone-style wines since the very start.

Tom has penned a helpful tutorial on these varieties, which you'll find at

To participate in Wine Tasting 101, you're invited to visit the forum at
to share your opinions on any California or other U.S. wine made from the Rhone varieties, ask questions and participate in online conversations on the subject. If you would like to compare notes with other wine lovers on specific "benchmark" wines, you're invited to taste and comment (in WT101 or the Wine Lovers' Discussion Group or both forums) on three wines that we've selected in a recent online poll:

  • Edmunds Saint-John "Rocks and Gravel"
  • Tablas Creek "Cotes de Tablas Red"
  • Laurel Glen "REDS"

The first two wines are true Rhone-styles, made from blends of Rhone varieties. "REDS" doesn't qualify as a Rhone Ranger because it adds Zinfandel to the blend, but we include it because it's modestly priced, popular, and made very much in the Southern French tradition with a California accent.

Interested in matching food with California Rhone-style wines? Watch the Food Lovers' Discussion Group during August for conversations on this topic.

Several fine-wine shops around the U.S. will be hosting tastings of California Rhone-style wines this month in cooperation with WT101 ... watch for specific announcements.

And finally, by happy coincidence, two related events are going on this month:

  • In Seattle on Aug. 6, the Rhone Rangers, a non-profit, educational organization established to advance public knowledge of Rhone varietal wine grapes grown in America, will host its second annual Rhone Rangers Grand Northwest Tasting. The event in McCaw Hall at the Seattle Center will benefit FareStart, a Seattle-based organization that helps men, women and young people create new opportunities for themselves through food-service training. For information on the program, visit the Rhone Rangers' site,
  • In Ann Arbor on Aug. 26-27, the annual MoTown Cooperative Offline (MoCool) will bring together Internet-connected wine lovers from around the country for its 14th annual weekend of dinners, picnic and wine-related socializing. This year's theme is "The Hunt for Rhone Rangers." For information, see the MoCool Home Page on,

Here's a simply formatted copy of today's Wine Advisor, designed to be printed out for your scrapbook or file or downloaded to your PDA or other wireless device.

If you'd like to ask a question or comment on today's topic (or any other wine-related subject), you'll find a round-table online discussion in our interactive Wine Lovers' Discussion Group, where you're always welcome to join in the conversations about wine.

If you prefer to comment privately, feel free to send me E-mail at I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Now, as we launch a new month's Wine Tasting 101 topic, let's grab this last-minute opportunity to feature one more from last month's feature, French Whites.

Dureuil-Janthial Vincent Dureuil-Janthial 2003 Bourgogne Aligoté ($25)

A variety worth knowing if only for wine-trivia discussions, Aligoté is the other white grape of Burgundy, making up a mere few drops in a sea of Chardonnay. Although it's generally regarded as a "lesser" grape capable of making only a short-lived wine, its plantings are declining in favor of its more sought-after cousin. But Burgundians recognize it as a worthy summer sipper and a fair food wine all year 'round. It good hands, especially in a ripe vintage like '03, it can make a white of real quality. This is a transparent, straw-color wine with pleasant aromas of fresh apples and a hint of spice (this importer's special bottling very likely sees a bit of oak); a snappy twist of lemon adds an appealing grace note on the nose and palate, and its mouth-filling, freshly tart flavor is crisp and pleasantly lemon-accented. U.S. importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, Calif. (July 25, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: Well-suited for sipping as a summer aperitif, it would match nicely with chicken or fish or a range of cheeses and vegetarian fare. It went very well indeed with the meatless pasta dish featured in last week's Wine Advisor FoodLetter, a variation on Marcella Hazan's penne with spinach and ricotta using fresh kale as a substitute green.

VALUE: It's a good wine, but to be blunt, the $25 price tag is distinctly on the cheeky side unless you're willing to pay a premium to mark off an uncommon variety on your "life list." It would be much more competitive in the lower teens, and indeed one excellent New York retailer, Chambers Street Wines, lists it for $15.

WHEN TO DRINK: The conventional wisdom argues that Aligoté is a "drink me now" wine, and its fruit will be best over the next year or two, although it will certainly hold longer under good cellar conditions.

"Aligote" = "Ah-lee-go-tay"

I've had no luck finding a Website for Dureuil-Janthial, but you'll find a bit about the producer in sales material from two U.S. importers. North Berkeley (Adobe Acrobat PDF format):
and Michael Skurnik:

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE: lists only Chambers Street,
as an online source for the Dureuil-Janthial Aligoté. To compare other Aligotés, click:

California Wine Club
California Wine Club:
It's the Wine (and cheese!) at Van Ruiten Vineyards

From dairyman to winery owner, it took John Van Ruiten 50 years to see his dream of a family-owned and operated winery, crafting award-winning California wines, to become a reality. This month's selection from The California Wine Club features Van Ruiten's 2000 Cabernet Shiraz (rich and bursting with flavors of blackberry and plum) and 2002 "Lodi" Chardonnay (fragrances of melon and honey leading to butterscotch and apricot) carrying 13 medals between them.

Order today and read the whole story of this winery and get the family's fabulous Gouda Fondue recipe in the Uncorked magazine with your shipment. Call The California Wine Club now at 1-800-777-4443 or visit them online at

This week on

Here are links to some of our recently published articles that I think you'll enjoy:

For the Love of Port: 2003 Vintage Port Forecast
Port expert Roy Hersh offers an in-depth look at nearly four dozen barrel samples of 2003 Vintage Ports, and declares 2003 "a historical defining moment" because, he says, high-quality Vintage Ports are no longer solely made by the big names in the trade but by a growing number of first-time producers, barely known names and small family-owned operations that deserve acclaim. For the online edition, click
Or use this link for an Adobe Acrobat (PDF) copy of Hersh's full newsletter, For the Love of Port (1.3 megabytes):

Wine Lovers' Discussion Group: What would make a wine smell like paint thinners?
Following up on Friday's Wine Advisor about wine faults, an online forum discussion of volatile acidity and the high-toned aromas it imparts.

Last Week's Wine Advisor Index

The Wine Advisor's daily edition is usually distributed on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays (and, for those who subscribe, the FoodLetter on Thursdays). Here's the index to last week's columns:

 Wine faults - "Brett" (July 29, 2005)

 All that jazz (July 27, 2005)

 Heat's on (July 25, 2005)

 Complete 30 Second Wine Advisor archive:

 Wine Advisor FoodLetter: Pasta with ricotta and greens (July 28, 2004)

 Wine Advisor Foodletter archive:

 30 Second Wine Advisor, daily or weekly (free)
 Wine Advisor FoodLetter, Thursdays (free)
 Wine Advisor Premium Edition, alternate Tuesdays ($24/year)

For all past editions, click here


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Monday, Aug. 1, 2005
Copyright 2005 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.

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