Today's Sponsors:
 California Wine Club
Wine Sale Going on Now!
 French Wine Explorers
Meet me in the Rhone!

In This Issue
 See you Friday! We're taking a short travel break.
 Taking a shine to Lagrein Tasting an offbeat but impressive Northern Italian variety.
 Bottega Vinaia 2001 Trentino Lagrein ($17.99) Deep and brooding, ripe plums, earth and snappy acidity combine in a first-rate red.
 California Wine Club Wine Sale Going on Now!
 French Wine Explorers Meet me in the Rhone!
 This week on Our columnist sommelier ponders the marriage of chicken and wine.
Last Week's Wine Advisor Index The Wine Advisor archives.
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See you Friday!
Because of my travels, I'm taking a few days off from regular publication. We'll skip the Wednesday Wine Advisor this week, and the Thursday FoodLetter will also take a one-week holiday. See you Friday!

Taking a shine to Lagrein

As I pack for a quick trip to New York City to meet and share wine and food with a group of wine-grape enthusiasts who are just as enthusiastic as I am about exploring offbeat and unusual varieties, it just seems to make sense to top today's short (and slightly early) edition with a quick look at a rare one.

As I've pointed out before in our frequent discussions about less-familiar wine grapes and regions, some of these odd fruits are relatively unknown for a good reason: They are (shhh!) not very good. Some indigenous grapes and wacky crosses and hybrids were traditionally used because, well, that's the way grandfather did it; or because the more popular and commercially viable varieties wouldn't grow well in the local climate.

But here and there around the world, rare grapes toil in ill-deserved obscurity, varieties that make wine so good that it leaves you scratching your head and wondering why the grape hasn't conquered the world of commerce and become as ubiquitous as Chardonnay or Merlot or maybe Pinot Noir.

I'm inclined to nominate Lagrein ("La-GRINE") for this short list. It hails from the Dolomite Alps of Trentino in far northern Italy, where the regional heritage combines Italian and Austrian ancestry, making German names (like "Lagrein," for instance) almost as commonplace as words with vowels on their ends.

This dark-red, slightly bitter grape sports a history of at least 300 years in the region, and much of it goes into modest table wines that don't travel much outside the region and don't really deserve to. But grown with attention to controlled yields and vinified with respect in a traditional style sometimes called "Dunkel" in Italian or "Scuro" in Italian, meaning "dark" in either language, it can be a memorable wine.

Perhaps it's the relative scarcity of quality Lagrein that has kept its fame near home, although a handful of experimental types around the world, including a few California producers, have tried growing it. I'll report on a Lagrein from my pals at Mosby in Central Coast California one day soon.

Today's wine, though, comes from the heart of the Dolomites. Bottega Vinaia, a 50-year-old property in the scenic Valley of the Lakes in Trentino, was purchased in the early 1990s by Giacinto Giacomini and Anselmo Martini, who were executives of the giant Italian mass-market winery Cavit. There's nothing downscale about this memorable Lagrein, though: Balanced, rich and expressive, it's drinking beautifully now but is likely to last a decade.

If you're going to be in or around Manhattan on Wednesday, it should still be possible to get a last-minute reservation for the Wine Century Club's inaugural dinner at the fine Italian restaurant Lo Scalco. For more information, E-mail club founders Steve and Deborah De Long at or click to the Wine Century Club Web page,

Here's a simply formatted copy of today's Wine Advisor, designed to be printed out for your scrapbook or file or downloaded to your PDA or other wireless device.

If you'd like to ask a question or comment on today's topic (or any other wine-related subject), you'll find a round-table online discussion in our interactive Wine Lovers' Discussion Group, where you're always welcome to join in the conversations about wine.

If you prefer to comment privately, feel free to send me E-mail at I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Bottega Vinaia Bottega Vinaia 2001 Trentino Lagrein ($17.99)

This wine is very dark reddish-purple, almost black in the glass. Dark, brooding aromas focus on black plums and earth with a very subtle, pleasant "barnyard" note in the background. Ripe, juicy fruit seems almost sweet on the first taste impression, but crisp, lemon-squirt acidity enters on the mid-palate and turns the flavor steely and bone-dry. Ripe plums and a citric snap persist in a very long finish. An excellent wine, demonstrates Lagrein's potential to rank among the big-name grape varieties. U.S. importer: Palm Bay Imports Inc., Boca Raton, Fla. (March 10, 2005)

FOOD MATCH: The wine is dark and rich enough to stand up to red meat, but subtle enough to work and play well with more delicate fare. It made an exceptional match with ossobuco bianco, its lemon-squirt acidity echoing the snappy flavors in the gremolata (lemon zest, garlic and parsley blend) used to finish the dish.

VALUE: Wines of this quality from more familiar regions and better-known grapes would sell significantly above this upper-teens price point. Excellent value.

WHEN TO DRINK: I can claim no personal experience with older Lagrein, but the conventional wisdom is that bottlings of good quality will benefit from five years of cellar time and can continue to improve for 10 or more. As enjoyable as this model is now, it might be hard to wait!

Lagrein = "La-GRINE" (rhymes with "wine")

For information on Bottega Vinaia, see the U.S. importer's Website,

To search for Bottega Vinaia Lagrein on, click:

California Wine Club

California Wine Club
Wine Sale Going On Now!

Save up to 73 percent off normal retail prices with The California Wine Club's March Into Spring Wine Sale. Choose from a large selection of award-winning wines. All of the club's past selections have been deeply discounted and are on sale only until March 31. To view the full list of wines available visit
or call The California Wine Club at 1-800-777-4443.

French Wine Explorers:
Meet me in the Rhone!

It's hard to believe that only three months remain before our annual tour with French Wine Explorers on June 6-12. We still have room for a few more, so I hope you'll visualize yourself, and perhaps a partner or friend, joining in as we visit some of the top wine producers, fine restaurants and luxury hotels of the Northern and Southern Rhône. It's a real joy for me to meet and get to know Wine Advisor readers as we travel on these memorable tours, and I hope you'll consider coming along.

This seven-day, six-night tour will take us on an in-depth exploration of the region's beautiful scenery, delicious Provençal cuisine, and rich, expressive wines, highlighted by a very special opportunity to join the wine makers of Chateauneuf-du-Pape for a gala dinner and dance in the historic 14th century wine cellars of the Papal Court at Avignon.

If you have any questions at all about the tour, please feel free to get in touch with me personally at

For more information, visit French Wine Exporers' Northern and Southern Rhône tour page,
And if you'd like to make your reservations now, send E-mail to, call 1-877-261-1500 (toll-free in the U.S. and Canada) to request a reservation form, or download the form (Adobe Acrobat format) from this link:

This week on

Here are links to some of our recently published articles that I think you'll enjoy:

Randy's World of Wine: Chicken Everybody Loves
Randy Caparoso knows his food and wine, and he'll eat chicken ... everywhere he goes. He offers us some wine for thought with some of the more familiar variations of chicken you may find, at home or far away.

Last Week's Wine Advisor Index

The Wine Advisor's daily edition is usually distributed on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays (and, for those who subscribe, the FoodLetter on Thursdays). Here's the index to last week's columns:

 Building a structure (March 11, 2004)

 The problem with Pinot (March 9, 2004)

 Simplifying the wine label (March 7, 2004)

 Complete 30 Second Wine Advisor archive:

 Wine Advisor FoodLetter: When cookbooks go wrong (March 10, 2004)

 Wine Advisor Foodletter archive:

 30 Second Wine Advisor, daily or weekly (free)
 Wine Advisor FoodLetter, Thursdays (free)
 Wine Advisor Premium Edition, alternate Tuesdays ($24/year)

For all past editions, click here


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Monday, March 14, 2005
Copyright 2005 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.

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