|
Full body and back labels
Maybe it's just me, but I find it a little more challenging to judge a wine's body than just about anything else about its appearance, aroma or flavor.
This characteristic in wine may vary from light-bodied (as in some ethereal whites like Muscadet or lightweight reds like Beaujolais) through medium-bodied (a typical Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, maybe) to full-bodied (think buttery-style Chardonnay or "chewy" Chateauneuf-du-Pape) and on to a few so full that they start evoking terms like "unctuous" (as in the weightiest Alsatian Riesling or late-harvest dessert wines). Alcohol is a determining factor in body or weight - higher-alcohol wines typically come across as fuller-bodied than their more modestly endowed kin - but residual sugar, tannins and even fruit extract can contribute to the textural impression. Short of laboratory analysis, the boundaries between light, medium and full body are very much up to the observer, and I've often seen reasonable judges disagree about a specific item. The bottom line, as it so often is with wine, is that the judgement is up to you, and there's nothing like practice to develop skill. Today's ruminations were inspired by a couple of recently tasted wines whose back labels contained descriptions that varied from my own impressions, leaving me to ponder whether the labels lied or if I simply can't tell the difference. Or maybe both! Be that as it may, the back label of 2005 "Le Pigeoulet en Provence" - a tasty Grenache-based Vin de Pays red that the Brunier family of Domaine Vieux-Telegraphe make from grapes grown in the Cotes-du-Rhone and the adjacent Cotes-du-Ventoux in Provence - declare it a "full-bodied" wine. I judged it rather light-bodied, and considered that a compliment to its refreshing, racy style. Another evening I opened a fruity, juicy, slightly sweet and very full-bodied Oregon white, the 2004 Pinot Gris from Iris Hill, and found to my amusement that its back label described this unctuous bowl of fruit as merely "medium-bodied." (Curiously enough, the winery Website came closer to agreement with my observation, describing the 2005 release as "round soft structure.") Go figure. I'll draw two lessons from today's sermon: Practice, practice, practice; and don't trust the back label.
Dark garnet, with a clear edge. A blend of 80% Grenache and 10% each Syrah and Cinsaut, it shows off its Grenache character in ripe red berries and leafy herbal notes on the nose and palate. Light-bodied but juicy and forward, raspberry fruit and snappy acidity. Mouth-watering, refreshing, good with food - it was a delight with leftover smoked pork ribs and chicken from a fine local barbecue joint - but I'm a little puzzled by the back label's "full-bodied" language. U.S. importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Jan. 8, 2007)
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Clear straw color with glints of gold. Luscious pear and melon aromas, ripe and full, lead into a full-bodied, unctuous texture that's perceptibly off-dry with a pleasant, restrained fresh-fruit sweetness well balanced by crisp, fresh fruit acidity and just a whiff of peach-pit bitterness in the finish. Its 13.5% alcohol level is a bit on the hefty side for Pinot Gris, and perhaps contributes to its full body, but I remain bemused by the back label's assertion that it's "medium-bodied" and "dry." Good with richer poultry dishes or pork; it was fine with a somewhat gourmet-ified turkey hash with onions, finocchio and celery. Winery Website: http://www.iris-hill.com (Jan. 9, 2007)
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Today's Sponsor
You may have seen us featured in GQ magazine, The Wall Street Journal, New Jersey Monthly and elsewhere. WineLibrary.com features a huge collection of top wines from around the world, great gifts and accessories, a daily video blog (WineLibraryTV), huge selection of futures (including red hot 2005 Bordeaux at incredible pricing) and much, much more! Search our quick loading/high speed database of the hottest new wines from California, France, Italy, Australia, New Zealand, Spain, Germany, Austria, South America and more. Join our e-mail service and get an early heads up when wines like Bryant, Harlan, Dominus and others arrive! Bottom line, we offer the lowest prices, the largest selection, lightning fast shipments and the greatest customer service in the industry! WineLibrary.com is your one-stop shop for everything wine ... so what are you waiting for? Log on to WineLibrary.com today!
For our Free Shipping Item of the Day, log on to http://free.winelibrary.com!
TALK ABOUT WINE ONLINE:
Today's article is cross-posted in our Netscape WineLovers Community, where we also welcome comments and questions. To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.
PRINT OUT TODAY'S ARTICLE Administrivia To subscribe or unsubscribe from The 30 Second Wine Advisor, change your E-mail address, or for any other administrative matters, please use the individualized hotlink found at the end of your E-mail edition. If this is not practical, contact me by E-mail at wine@wineloverspage.com, including the exact E-mail address that you used when you subscribed, so I can find your record. We do not use our E-mail list for any other purpose and will never give or sell your name or E-mail address to anyone. I welcome feedback, suggestions, and ideas for future columns. To contact me, please send E-mail to wine@wineloverspage.com All the wine-tasting reports posted here are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores and accept no samples, gifts or other gratuities from the wine industry.
Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2007
|
Brunier 2005 "Le Pigeoulet en Provence" Vin de Pays de Vaucluse ($14)
Iris Hill 2004 Oregon Pinot Gris ($14)
