|
Offbeat grape - Kerner
We haven't taken a hike down the less-traveled wine trails lately, so let's have a look at an unusual but highly promising modern grape, a cross between the noble Riesling variety and the much less familiar grape that's variably known as Schiava, Vernatsch, Trollinger or Black Hamburg.
In contrast with the much-maligned French-American hybrid grapes of the Eastern U.S. and Canada - which involve hybridization between entirely different grape species - Kerner is a true "cross" between varieties of the classic Vitis vinifera species. Kerner was first bred at the the Weinsberg/Württemburg State Wine Institute in Baden, Germany, in 1969, making it one of the world's most recent commercially viable varieties. Within a generation it had become Germany's third most-planted grape after Riesling and Sylvaner and may eventually move into second place. It is also popular in Northern Italy's Südtirol (Alto Adige) and has been planted in South Africa, England, British Columbia in Canada and Michigan in the U.S. Jancis Robinson speaks highly of Kerner, declaring it "commendably close to Riesling in flavour except with [its] own leafy aroma and very slightly coarser texture." In contrast with the custom of naming new varieties after grape scientists, she adds, Kerner honors the memory of a 19th century composer of German drinking songs. With its growing reputation, Kerner may not rate as "offbeat" or "little-known" for very long. Today's featured wine is an Italian Kerner, from the Abbazia di Novacella winery in Bolzano, in the Alpine, German-speaking Alto Adige. Built around an ancient abbey and founded in 1142, this is said to be one of the oldest wineries in the world. The wine, a 100 percent varietal Kerner, offers a splendid example of the grape, cool-fermented and produced entirely in neutral stainless steel to retain the purity of the fruit. Powerful and aromatic and well-balanced, it's worth seeking out.
Transparent straw color. Fresh aromas offer a tasty blend of mixed white fruits, with hints of apple, peach, grapefruit and a tropical whiff of mango. It's ripe and full in flavor, so luscious that the first sip seems sweet and almost soft, but that impression quickly gives way to tart, mouth-watering acidity and a distinct touch of peach-pit bitterness. The label claims a hefty 14% alcohol, but alcoholic heat isn't obvious in its well-balanced flavor and crisp white-fruit finish. U.S. importer: VIAS Imports, NYC. (Aug. 30, 2006) FOOD MATCH: It has the heft to hold up to pork, veal, roast chicken or swordfish; I put it to good use with a Caprese-style summer salad of thick, ripe tomato slices layered with mozzarella, sliced avocado and thin-sliced peppered nova salmon. VALUE: At $20, it's a bit above the line for everyday wine for most of us. It's a fine wine, though, and certainly justifies the expense if you enjoy "collecting" new varieties and regions and have yet to check a Kerner off your list; better still if you can find a vendor offering this wine in the middle to upper teens. WHEN TO DRINK: Riesling ages well, but does this Riesling cross inherit its parent's longevity? Jancis Robinson thinks so. I have little Kerner experience to guide me, but based on the Riesling heritage and the wine's depth, power and balance, I wouldn't hesitate to put a bottle or two away in a good cellar for a few years to find out.
WEB LINK:
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
TALK ABOUT WINE ONLINE:
Today's article is cross-posted in our Netscape WineLovers Community, where we also welcome comments and questions. To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.
PRINT OUT TODAY'S ARTICLE  The California Wine Club: WINE SALE Going On Now! Save up to 70 percent during The California Wine Club's Wine Sale Cornucopia! We are clearing out our cellar and making room for the upcoming holiday season, which means every wine is on sale, including wines from our upper-level club and international selections.
Stock up for the holidays, reorder a favorite or try something new. Visit
As always, every wine is 100% guaranteed. Call 1-800-777-4443 or visit Be sure to check out our Closeouts! With wines as low as $6.50 per bottle, you're sure to find something special for you. Sale ends Sept. 30, 2006. Half, full and mixed cases okay. All prices F.O.B. Ventura CA.
SUBSCRIBE: Administrivia To subscribe or unsubscribe from The 30 Second Wine Advisor, change your E-mail address, or for any other administrative matters, please use the individualized hotlink found at the end of your E-mail edition. If this is not practical, contact me by E-mail at wine@wineloverspage.com, including the exact E-mail address that you used when you subscribed, so I can find your record. We do not use our E-mail list for any other purpose and will never give or sell your name or E-mail address to anyone. I welcome feedback, suggestions, and ideas for future columns. To contact me, please send E-mail to wine@wineloverspage.com All the wine-tasting reports posted here are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores and accept no samples, gifts or other gratuities from the wine industry.
Friday, Sept. 1, 2006
|
Abbazia di Novacella 2004 Alto Adige Valle Isargo Kerner ($19.99)
