Wood on Wine

Demystifying "bubbly"
© by Linwood Slayton
I love to drink a chilled bottle of "bubbly" - most any time. Champagne is such a versatile wine that it suits my temperament nearly all of the time. It is difficult to imagine a time when I am not "in the mood" for good Champagne. Unlike some heavier wines, it is wonderful without food and it is an excellent "starter" for a social occasion - friends over for a meal or just to talk and party.

Champagne! I like it; I drink it; and, it is not cheap! I have much to learn about "good" champagne as I, like, most people I know, think (thought) Moet & Chandon was "good" and Dom Perignon and Cristal were the "best." The reality is that these are simply "popular" Champagnes and that does not necesarily mean they are "good." Certainly, there are much "better" Champagnes out there that cost less and that few people know exist.

This is the kind of challenge that intrigues me- to find out about new stuff that is "good" and costs less!

Champagne is French! California sparkling wine is often called "champagne" as a type of wine but true Champagne (note the capital "C") comes from France.

Champagne should be served in either a Flute or Tulip-shaped glass- this is important as the glass helps to preserve the bubbles. The fact is that it is the BUBBLES which make Champagne unique as compared to other wines. The shallow style glasses that don't hold much (often served at weddings, etc.) are not good as the bubbles will disappear that much faster. (A lot of wedding champagne is not Champagne).

Look at the bubbles in the glass of Champagne. If they are small, like pinheads, the odds are that its "good" Champagne. If they are big like bubbles in seltzer, don't be impressed!

Champagne is made from three different kinds of grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Typically, the Champagnes are blends of these three types of grapes. In general, more white grapes makes for lighter Champagne; more red grapes means fuller champagne.

It is diffcult to describe the taste of one Champagne as compared to another. All Champagnes are considered "sweet" due to the amounts of residual sugar added. Yet, all sparkling wines don't necessarily taste sweet. There are some general label guides to aid in ascertaining how sweet a particular bottle may be:

• extra brut, brut nature or brut sauvage - totally dry
• brut - dry
• extra dry - medium dry
• sec - slightly sweet
• demi-sec - fairly sweet
• doux - sweet

The most common style of Champagne and other serious sparkling wine is Brut. Yet, Moet & Chandon, one of the the best selling Champagnes in the U.S. is extra dry.

As indicated previously, Champagne is French - it is a region in France known for its method of producing Champagne. However, sparkling wine is also made in other places around he world.

Typically, California bubbly is fruitier than Champagne. Korbel is California bubbly and uses the name champagne as it is bottle fermented as is the French wine. Spanish sparkling wines are called "Cava." These include Freixnet ("fresh net") and Codorniu. German sparkling wine is called "Sekt" and tends to be fruity. Italian bubbly is called "spumante" which means sparkling in Italian. Many people think spumante means sweet as in Asti Spumante.

Champagne should be served cold (45 degrees) - the colder it is the more it effevesces. When entertaining, it is wise to buy Magnums as the wine ages better in larger bottles.

Champagne is very versatile with food - for some foods, it is essential. Egg dishes of any type match well with Champagne - better than any other type of wine - good for brunches, etc. Spicy Asian cuisine also matches well with Champagne. Turkey is good with it as well.

As a drink for social occasions, I can think of nothing better. Most of my friends (even the occasional wine drinkers) will seldom turn down a glass of bubbly. Of course, good Champagne is not cheap and the cost associated with serving a gathering of friends (10-12 people) Champagne throughout the evening can get unwieldy. I like to invite friends over and when they ask if they can bring anything, tell them each to bring a bottle of their favorite Champagne- this results in a nice variety of "above-average" bottles that everyone can share and experience something other than what they customarily drink. Those who prefer to drink the lower end stuff will be able to enjoy their preferences as well.

Art Buchwald, when asked to describe the taste of Champagne said "I like it because it always tastes like my foot's asleep".

Perhaps the best quote re: Champagne I've seen was by Madame Lily Bollinger: "I only drink Champagne when I'm happy, and when I'm sad. Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it - unless I'm thirsty."

May 2001