© Copyright 1998 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Boscaini 1994 "Santo Stefano de la Cane" Vino di Ripasso Vino da Tavola del Veronese ($14.99)
Ripasso, an unusual Veronese wine-making process, involves putting young Valpolicella wine into the barrels and onto the skins used to ferment the previous autumn's Amarone, triggering a secondary fermentation and an explosion of flavors. The process certainly worked for this lusty wine. It's dark ruby in color with an orange glint. Amazing aromas -- orange peel, cinnamon and cloves and very ripe black fruit, plums and prunes. Full and ripe fruit flavors follow the nose, big and rich, dry and acidic. Wonderful warming winter wine ... I've had mass-market Amarones with less power and elegance than this. U.S. importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., NYC. (Dec. 19, 1998)
FOOD MATCH: Good with lamb chops, better still for sipping after dinner.
Vigna dei Prey 1997 Dolcetto di Dogliani ($13.99)
FOOD MATCH: A little over the top for a white ossobuco (braised veal shank) that would have been about right with a more typical Dolcetto.
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