Champagne Pol Roger non-vintage Brut ($24.99)
Pol RogerPale gold, with a frothy mousse that subsides to a persistent fountain of tiny bubbles. Fresh, juicy apples in the aroma, framed by an appetizing whiff of milk chocolate that I often note in sparkling wines made with Pinot Noir in the blend. Full-bodied and toasty, as I expect of Pol Roger, finishing crisp, fresh and clean. A very fine Champagne at a price that, by the lofty standard of the genre, is more than reasonable for a celebratory occasion. U.S. importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd., NYC. (Dec. 5, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Fine Champagne complements a wide variety of foods, and in this case made an amiable match with a meatless casserole of cardoons (a celery-like Mediterranean vegetable) baked with potatoes and Gruyere cheese.
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