© Copyright 1998 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Marques de Velilla 1997 Ribera del Duero ($7.99)
Having been awakened to the potential quality of Ribera del Duero by our visit to Spain this year, I'm always on the lookout for a good one. Naturally I snapped up this low-end item when I saw its single-digit price. But in a world where the best of the genre has crossed the $20 line without looking back, I'm afraid this one demonstrates that you get where you pay for. It's a very dark garnet in color, with rather tightly wound black-fruit and caramel aromas. More forward on the palate than the nose, it's juicy and ripe, pleasant but one-dimensional. Tannins aren't evident, but there's plenty of lemony acidity to hold it together and make it a match with food. Fair value but no bargain. U.S. importer: Cutting Edge Selections, Cincinnati. (Nov. 30, 1998)
FOOD MATCH: Mexican-style turkey mole made with Thanksgiving leftovers.
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