© Copyright 1997 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
This six-year-old Mosel Riesling gives a delicious hint of the glories that await wine lovers who have the patience to cellar the top German wines of the Rhine and the Mosel. Its complexity and structure place it in the top rank of table wines, although -- even in this bone-dry example -- the stylistic difference between German wines and most of the rest of the world's table wines can't be ignored. I find quality German wines very enjoyable indeed, but they do require a paradigm shift if you've been drinking French or Italian table wines and their New World analogues.
Dr. Loosen 1991 Erdener Treppchen (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Riesling Kabinett ($13.99)
FOOD MATCH: This might be as much of a heritage thing as a wine-and-food thing, but this one went exceptionally well with a German-style dinner of boneless rolled pork loin roasted on a bed of sauerkraut laced with caraway seeds and dark beer.
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