Chateau de Pennautier 1998 Cabardès ($7.99)
Chateau de PennautierThis modest but appealing wine is made near the historic Southern French city Carcassonne, and it bears a kinship to the Cabernet- and Merlot-based wines of Bordeaux not too far to its northwest. Dark garnet in color, it shows light blueberry and spicy oak aromas. Fresh and tart on the palate, juicy cherry-berry fruit is a bit thin, but good structure and fruit make it a very good value. U.S. importer: International Gourmet Corp., Tucker, Ga. (Nov. 4, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Gives good service with a thick, medium-rare pan-grilled T-bone.

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Chateau de Ségries 1999 Lirac Cuvée Réservée ($9.99)
Chateau de SegriesVery dark ruby, with ripe, plummy aromas and a whiff of fragrant pepper; bright, peppery black fruit flavors are well balanced by tart acidity. Nothing fancy here, but this fresh and fruity table wine offers a fine value, and evokes happy memories of Paris bistros. U.S. importer: Kysela Pere et Fils Ltd., Winchester, Va. (Nov. 2, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Worked very nicely with a dish fashioned to match: Boneless chicken breasts sauteed and topped with Gruyere, roast red peppers and a thin coating of Usinger's braunschweiger.

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