© Copyright 1997 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Very dark garnet in color. Delicious black fruit and spicy oak aromas, a bit closed at first, opens up with time in the glass. Full, brooding flavor, black fruit over a sturdy acidic structure and marked tannins. Really an excellent wine, showing great balance and finesse despite its obvious youth. Importer: Cutting Edge Selections Inc., Cincinnati. (Nov. 1, 1997)
CONVERGING STYLES? This wine raises a controversial issue that bears closer examination: It's more like a "world red" in style than a traditional Rioja (and perhaps not coincidentally, it gained a high rating from Robert M. Parker, who likes wines like this). I like it too, but I feel a little pain at the idea that the classic wine styles of Spain -- and Italy, France, Australia, the U.S., etc. -- might be influenced by critics and the marketplace to converge toward uniformity.
Burgans 1996 Rias Baixas Albariño ($9.99)
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