© Copyright 1997 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Baron de Bachen 1992 Tursan ($12.99)
Made from the little-known Baroque grape in the same general region of far Southwestern France near the Pyrenees, neighboring the district that produces the red Madiran, Tursan Blanc is a wine that -- according to conventional wisdom -- should be drunk quite young. So I was a little cautious about trying this not-inexpensive bottle, a chateau-bottled Tursan that's five years past the vintage. It turned out to be a good decision, though; a white that's definitely showing its age but is still alive, breathing and beautiful. Clear bright gold color. Delicious pears and toasty oak aromas, still showing plenty of fruit and plenty of life. Seems older on the palate, crisp and bright, white fruit flavors and a whiff of almonds and caramel. It's well short of maderization, though, rich and complex and easy to sip. Let's call it "well-aged" rather than "geriatric." Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, Calif. (Oct. 9, 1997)
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