© Copyright 1997 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Weingut Steitz 1991 Steckweiler Mittelberg (Nahe) Riesling Trocken ($8.49)
Question: Given that good Rhine (and Mosel) Rieslings are capable of aging remarkably well, can the same be said of the newfangled "Trocken," wines vinified bone-dry in contrast with the usual German custom of leaving Rieslings slightly sweet with acidity in delicate balance?
Answer: This six-year-old example certainly did. It's amazingly youthful, beautifully structured and full of complex, delicious fruit. It's a very pale straw color. Delicious aromas, white fruit and pine and a Riesling "mineral" scent verging on the classic "diesel." Fully dry and tartly acidic, tasty tangerine and strawberry flavors, loads of fruit despite its years. Excellent balance, with flavors consistent in a very long, clean and tart finish. Very fine wine. (Better still, a fine food wine, with the stuffing needed to stand up to a fiery Ethiopian doro wat.) Shipped by J & H Selbach, Zeltinger, Mosel, Germany; imported by Willett Distributing Inc., Bardstown, Ky. (Sept. 3, 1997)
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