© Copyright 1999 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
D'Arenberg 1997 McLaren Vale (Australia) "The Footbolt" Old Vine Shiraz ($11.99)
Very dark reddish-purple. Black fruit aromas are dominated by potent new oak, quite obtrusive at first, although it gradually falls back to a more even match as the wine airs in the glass, revealing fragrant black pepper and cherry-berry fruit more typical of ripe Australian Shiraz. Pleasant enough wine, but when the vines are good enough to merit a label mention of their geriatric status, one wonders why d'Arenberg sees a need to cloak it with so much wood. U.S. importer: Old Bridge Cellars, San Francisco. (Aug. 28, 1999)
FOOD MATCH: A juicy pan-grilled T-bone helps ameliorate the oak; a good match.
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