© Copyright 1997 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Hugues Beaulieu 1995 Picpoul de Pinet Coteaux du Languedoc ($6.99)
This is a real nostalgia shot, as I happily remember discovering Picpoul during a trip to Montpellier in 1981, well before Languedoc wines were a blip on the U.S. radar screen. It's an ancient grape known for full-bodied, acidic wines ("piquepoul" purportedly means "lip stinger"), and they've been making a good table white from it in the Midi for well over 300 years. This is a clear, straw-colored wine, showing a light musky scent with overtones of almonds. While it stops well short of the alleged "sting," it's certainly lemon-tart and full, with a good citric flavor that lasts and lasts. More by luck than skill, I served it with a plate of store-bought fried chicken with a lot of black pepper in the crust, and it went surprisingly well. Very good wine, and an exceptionally good value at this low-end price. Importer: Kysela Pere & Fils, Ltd., Winchester, Va. (Aug. 15, 1997)
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