© Copyright 1997 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Domaine Diochon 1995 Cuvée Vielles Vignes Moulin-à-Vent
As we were sipping this excellent cru Beaujolais tonight, it occurred to me that Georges Duboeuf has so completely captured the market for this genre in the U.S. that a lot of us rarely stop to realize that Duboeuf's "house character" imparted by his proprietary yeast is NOT the only style of Beaujolais. Sipping this ripe, fruity Beaujolais that doesn't show a hint of the characteristic Duboeuf "banana nose" is a revelation, and one that fully justifies the high-end (for Beaujolais) price. It's a very dark garnet color. Ripe and appetizing red-fruit aroma, apples and plums. Flavors follow the nose, juicy and fresh; apple butter and lemon-squirt acidity to hold it all together. In a word: Delicious; and it went very well indeed with an Italian-style fricasee chicken with garlic and fresh garden herbs.
PRICE WATCH: No increase from the previous vintage in this market. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (July 21, 1997)
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