© Copyright 1999 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Taylor Fladgate 10 Years Porto ($24.99)
If you want a taste of the complexity of serious Port without having to wait years for a fine Vintage Port to mature, it's hard to beat Tawny Port, which takes its name from the brownish color that develops as it ages for many years in oak barrels before being bottled and sold. Tawny occupies a safe middle ground between the pricey vintage style, which all but requires cellar time, and the less expensive Ruby and Late-Bottled Vintage Ports, which can be enjoyable but pretty much illustrate the principle, "You get what you pay for." This 10-year-old Taylor Fladgate is a clear cherry color, surprisingly reddish for a Tawny, with delicious stone-fruit and caramel aromas and a hint of orange peel. Full-bodied and sweet, it avoids cloying with the help of a tart acidic "grip." Prunes and plums and sweet chocolate linger in a very long finish. U.S. importer: Kobrand Corp., NYC. (May 20, 1999)
FOOD MATCH: Served alone for after-dinner enjoyment.
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