© Copyright 1999 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Babcock 1997 Santa Barbara County Carrari Vineyards Pinot Gris ($14.99)
Driven by curiosity to compare and contrast two wines of good potential made from the same grape in different parts of the world, I uncorked this Pinot Gris from a Southern California winery whose products I respect while I still had a good memory of the similarly priced Trimbach 1996 Alsace Pinot Gris Reserve tasted earlier in the week. The California entry was good, but I'm afraid it took a distant second place to the Alsatian, falling short in body, complexity and grace. That being said, the Babcock is still a tasty Pinot Gris; it's just that the Trimbach was exceptional. A very pale brass color, the California wine offers crisp, tart and musky fruit aromas and flavors framed with lemon-squirt acidity, cleansing and balanced. (April 16, 1999)
FOOD MATCH: Fine with a white ossobuco, the citric acidity making a nice foil for the lemony gremolata flavoring in the veal.
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