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Today's Wine Tasting Note

© Copyright 1999 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.

Four Burgundies
Anyone who follows my wine notes with any regularity will observe that reports on fine Burgundies are few and far between. The sad reality is that the prices of quality Burgundy have risen so high that I simply can't afford them often; and I've found little but frustration when I seek quality in the lower end of the market. Burgundy is too good to ignore entirely, though, so from time to time I indulge in a few special bottles. Here are my notes on two reds and two whites that we've enjoyed over the past couple of weeks.

Mugneret Domaine Georges Mugneret 1991 Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes ($24.99)
Clear ruby. Perfumed sour-cherry fruit and heady floral aromas like a bouquet of old roses. Light yet intense on the palate, flavors consistent with the nose, plenty of fruit framed with crisp acidity. Very fine wine, and by the standards of Burgundy, a surprisingly low price. U.S. importer: Willett Distributing Co., Alexandria, Ky. (March 27, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: A great companion to roast duck.

Dugat-Py Bernard Dugat-Py 1993 Vieilles Vignes Gevrey-Chambertin ($34.99)
Slightly hazy ruby. Full, deep chocolate-cherry aromas with whiffs of tar and smoke, an odd, appealing evocation of lapsang souchong tea. Full-bodied and rich, flavors follow the nose; complex and lasting in a very long finish. U.S. importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, Pa. (March 21, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Made to go with lamb chops.

Dauvissat René et Vincent Dauvisssat 1996 Chablis Premier Cru "La Forest" ($29.99)
Clear straw color. Fresh apples and earthy notes, rich and earthy, with a perceptible note of wet wool that's a little offputting. Full, crisp fruit, clean and fresh, with the steely acidity that makes Chablis special. Good wine, good enough to justify a second glass, but the funky wool character is a significant flaw, especially in a wine of this price. U.S. importer: Vineyard Brands Inc., Birmingham, Ala. (March 26, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Worked well with pan-grilled swordfish.

Verget Verget 1997 St. Veran Tete de Cuvee ($11.99)
Previous experience with the general good quality of Verget's wines, especially those it labels Tete de Cuvee, led me to bring high expectations to this wine. Unfortunately, my expectations were poorly met. Very pale gold in color, the wine shows a light, fresh apple scent and crisp, tart apple fruit flavors. Nothing offputting or unpleasant about it, but it's simple, one-dimensional and essentially uninteresting. (March 22, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Serviceable for washing down roast chicken.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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