Peking duck and wine at King Fung (Jan. 20, 2001)
King Fung Garden restaurant may not be the most chic eatery in Boston, but despite its downscale hole-in-the-wall Chinatown appearance and tiny size, it's one of the best, with a friendly staff turning out Peking duck and a variety of other goodies to the applause of the lucky diners who cram into its 30 or so seats. Those seats were all filled with WLDGers last night, bearing an amazing array of wines as we settled in for another evening of frivolity after the first full day of the Boston Wine Expo.

I'm sure I missed a few, and these notes are even more terse than usual - you can't waste much time on TNs when there's such good food to be eaten - but here's a quick summary of the queue that backed up on the corner table where Thor and I were feverishly recording on our Palm Pilots. They're listed in the order tasted except for the reds, where I slightly shuffled the order to organize the list geographically.


Domaine Ostertag 1996 Heissenberg Riesling - perfumed, apples and mangoes.

Zind-Humbrecht 1993 Clos Windsbuhl Gewurztraminer - Intense grapefruit, full and rich. Probably white wine of the evening.

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils 1993 Brut - Appley and tart, creamy and rich.

Shooting Star 1999 Washington State Aligote - Apples and tart acid, a bit hot but nice structure.

Pavao n-v Vinho Verde - Fizzy and crisp, an earthy note.

Bründlmayer 1998 Ried Loiser Berg Kamptal Grüner Veltliner - Fresh green pea and mineral, delicious, gives the Z-H a run for its money.

Westport Rivers 1998 Southeastern New England Chardonnay - Appley and fresh, crisp, nice Chardonnay, a bit pricey for what it is at a reported $20.

Le Vigne di San Pietro 1997 Bianco di Custoza - delicate hazelnut and almond and fading white fruit. Showing its age.


Castello della Paneretta 1993 Chianti Classico - Earthy black cherry, complex and evolved, holding up well. Impressive wine.

Sottimano 1996 Fausoni Barbaresco Vigna del Salto - Smoky, floral, big and very tannic.

Avignonesi 1997 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - Black fruit, tar and smoke, big fruit anz tannin, very nice.

Sant'Antimo 1997 Cassisano-Colombaio Rosso - light nose, full palate, fresh black fruit.

d'Angelo 1994 Aglianico del Vulture - aromatic red fruit.

Fontana Bianca 1996 Barbaresco - Ripe and tart black-cherry fruit.

Louis Jadot 1997 Savigny-Lès-Beaune La Dominode - Delicious, silken fruit.

Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape - Deep and brooding black fruit, big structure.

Domaine de Pegau 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape - Big black fruit, restrained barnyard; tannic and full.

Domaine Paul Autard 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape - Dark, plummy, somewhat closed?

Jamet 1994 Cote-Rotie - Toast, ieather and grilled meat. Big and structured.

Chateau Meyney 1989 Saint Estephe - classic earthy Meyney. Still young.

Casa de Santar 1998 Dão Reserva - black fruit and leather, plummy and full.

Teófilo Reyes 1995 Ribera del Duero - plummy and full, still a "fruit bomb."

DeLoach 1990 Russian River Valley Zinfandel - fruity, berries, a big wine; holding up amazingly well after a decade, it still seems youthful.

Storrs Winery 1993 Santa Cruz Mountains Petite Sirah - Plummy, peppery; unusually complex for the variety. I like this wine.

Pahlmeyer 1997 Napa Valley Merlot - sweet black fruit and oak. Monolithic, woody finish. Thor declares it "vile." I'm not prepared to go that far, although "horrifying" works.

Sweet wines

Weingut Willi Schaefer 1995er Graacher Domprobst (MSR) Riesling Auslese - Clear gold. Honey and mango. Very sweet.

Joh. Jos. Prum 1999 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese - Crisp and fresh, apples and wildflowers. Not really a dessert wine but a very fine Mosel, young and showing promise.

Domaine des Petits Quarts 1996 Bonnezeaux Le Malabé - pale gold. Steely white fruit, sweet and tart.

Ernst Bretz 1998er Bechtoldsheimer Homberg Rheinhessen Riesling Eiswein - Unctuous, intensely sweet, seductive but flawed, with odd spoiled-fruit qualities and one-dimensional. Some discussion about whether it's corked, but I'm not convinced of that.

Chateau Rieussec 1990 Sauternes - Clear gold, honey and apricots. Sweet and rich. A classic.

Have you tasted these wines?
E-mail me your tasting notes, and I'll consider adding them to this page.

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