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Two from the South
Let's take a quick trip South of the Equator today for tasting reports on two interesting reds. Thorn-Clarke 2002 Shotfire Ridge Barossa Cuvee is an Australian blend of Bordeaux-style varieties from a producer whose Shiraz has earned a reputation for exceptional value. Add the Barossa Cuvee to that category, provided you like your reds in the big, in-your-face Australian style. Want a benchmark example of South Africa's signature Pinotage, a cross between Pinot Noir and the less sought-after Cinsaut grape? You'll find it in an affordable package with Graham Beck 2002 "Pinno", from a producer who's fairly well-known in the U.K. but just starting to turn up in scattered parts of the U.S.
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Thorn-Clarke 2002 "Shotfire Ridge" Barossa Cuvee ($15.49)
Very dark reddish-purple in color, this robust Australian red breathes blackcurrant and blueberry scents that signal its Bordeaux varieties, along with menthol, eucalyptus and spice aromatics that could just about pass for a Shiraz. It's big, tart and tannic in flavor; juicy black fruit is built on a firm acidic structure backed by puckery tannins. Full fruit carries it over the wall of tannins, but it's a high jump. Needs food to tame it, or a year or two of cellar time. U.S. importer: Kysela Pere et Fils Ltd., Winchester, Va. (Dec. 3, 2003) FOOD MATCH: Red meat is called for; it might be a bit much for unadorned poultry, although a hearty chicken pilaf with plenty of green peppers and onions came up to meet it. VALUE: Fair price judged against international competition; well below the price median for Australian reds in this big, "blockbuster" style. WHEN TO DRINK: As noted, a year or two of cellar time will serve it well.
WEB LINK: Thorn-Clarke is online here:
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE: Find a source for Graham Beck's Pinotages at Wine-Searcher.com: 
Graham Beck 2002 Western Cape "Pinno" Pinotage ($9.99)
Clear dark garnet with reddish-purple glints. Plummy aromas with a distinct earthy character, the "paintbox" scent of dried watercolors that's often used to describe Pinotage. The aromas carry over in the flavor, juicy red fruits and tart acidity backed by a pleasant earthiness that mixes "paintbox" and a whiff of black rubber. Closed with a black synthetic cork. U.S. importer: Robant LLC, Lexington, Ky., and other regional importers. (Dec. 2, 2003) FOOD MATCH: Particularly good with ham, which seems to bring the wine into better balance by showcasing its red-fruit flavors. VALUE: Good value. WHEN TO DRINK: Should keep on the wine rack for a year or two, but I don't see it as a candidate for cellaring.
WEB LINK: To visit the Graham Beck Website, click to:
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE: Find a source for Graham Beck's Pinotages at Wine-Searcher.com: Administrivia To subscribe or unsubscribe from The 30 Second Wine Advisor, change your E-mail address, or for any other administrative matters, please use the individualized hotlink found at the end of your E-mail edition. If this is not practical, contact me by E-mail at wine@wineloverspage.com, including the exact E-mail address that you used when you subscribed, so I can find your record. We do not use our E-mail list for any other purpose and will never give or sell your name or E-mail address to anyone. I welcome feedback, suggestions, and ideas for future columns. To contact me, please send E-mail to wine@wineloverspage.com All the wine-tasting reports posted here are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores and accept no samples, gifts or other gratuities from the wine industry.
Friday, Dec. 5, 2003 |
