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Anything but ... Merlot! Like Chardonnay, Merlot is a grape of demonstrable quality. Although it's historically most prominent as a team player in the blend of red grapes that make up Bordeaux, it's the dominant element in most Bordeaux from the "Right Bank," the noteworthy regions like St.-Emilion and Pomerol, where it makes up 95 percent of the sought-after and expensive Chateau Petrus. But also like Chardonnay, Merlot has become so popular that it suffers somewhat from over-exposure, particularly in modestly priced renditions where it's made fruity, soft and sometimes slightly sweet, a popular style that's best suited for sipping by the glass like a cocktail. For something with a little more heft and flavor interest, I turn to the earthy, complex and somewhat under-appreciated red-grape blends of the Rhone and Languedoc in France, wild assortments of such varieties as Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan, Cinsaut and ... well, you get the idea. Here are two recently sampled goodies, one from the Languedoc and one from California:
FOOD MATCH: Went well with light lamb meatballs on a puree of potatoes, turnip and celeriac.
FOOD MATCH: Excellent with a vegetarian dish of short pasta with radicchio and red onions.
WEB LINK: http://www.turnbullwines.com
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Friday, Dec. 21, 2001
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