Aromatic whites: Albarino
Albarino is pronounced "Ahl-bah-reen-yo" and spelled with a wiggly 'tilde' over the n that I won't reproduce here since some E-mail software has problems with it. Albarino is grown primarily in the section of Galicia in northwestern Spain called Rias Baixas, meaning "Lower Rivers" in the local Gallego dialect. Directly across the border in Portugal, the same grape is called Alvarinho and sometimes used in Vinho Verde, a wine we reviewed in the May 18, 2001 Wine Advisor Express.
These damp and rainy regions produce grapes with thick skins, and this, experts say, accounts for Albarino's naturally aromatic flavors. It's no surprise that the acidic white wines from this coastal area make natural companions with seafood and fish.
Today's wine is one of the pricier Albarinos, still a fair bargain by the standards of premium wines. Other widely distributed Albarinos come from Martin Codax and Burgans.
Morgadio 2000 Rias Baixas Albarino ($15.99)
FOOD MATCH: Its full aromas and zippy acidity make it a natural match with alder-smoked salmon with tiny new potatoes and a yogurt sauce laced with dill.
WEB INFORMATION: Morgadio fact sheet on importer's Website, http://www.classicalwines.com/morgadio.htm.
Friday, July 6, 2001