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What's so sweet about Dolcetto? Even as noteworthy a source as the late Frank Schoonmaker's New Encyclopedia of Wine declares Dolcetto "soft, lush, supple ... at its best within two or three years of the harvest." Jancis Robinson comes closer to the mark in her excellent pocket-size Guide to Wine Grapes, calling it "gentle, fruity and fragrant" but also noting that Dolcetto can be a startlingly tannic grape with potential to make a dark, astringent wine. Perhaps the name of the grape is misleading: It literally means "little sweet one," although a second theory - based on another premise that fails in real-world tasting - is that the Dolcetto grapes are unusually sweet when freshly picked from the vine. The simple fact is that Dolcetto is not a lightweight wine but a sturdy, gutsy Northern Italian red; and it pays not to underestimate it in your search for vinous enjoyment. Many Dolcettoes (or Dolcetti, if you prefer the Italian plural) simply carry the generic name of the region, but the most interesting versions carry the name of the specific sub-region in which the grapes are grown: Among others, Dolcetto d'Alba, Dolcetto d'Asti, Dolcetto d'Acqui, and perhaps best of all, the full-bodied and earthy Dolcetto Dogliani.
Today (below) we sample an Italian original from Dogliani and a delicious and well-made American version, made from the same grape grown in the Santa Barbara region up the California coast from Los Angeles. What do you think of Dolcetto? Send me E-mail at wine@wineloverspage.com. I regret that the growing circulation of the "Wine Advisor" makes it difficult for me to reply individually to every note, but I'll answer as many as I can; and please be assured that all your input helps me do a better job of writing about wine. We hope you'll invite your wine-loving friends to register for their own free weekly copy at http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor.
A pair of Dolcettoes ![]() Dark ruby with an orange glint. Deep black fruit and a whiff of exotic spice in the aroma. Full, tart and tannic, deep and brooding fruit. A California wine by a first-rate winery that pays due respect to the Italian style. (Oct. 11, 2000)
WEBSITE: www.mosbywines.com/index.htm
FOOD MATCH: Both wines go very well with bucatini all'Amatriciana, Roman-style pasta with pancetta, tomatoes and onions.
Wine notes in 'shelf-hanger' format
How do you use your wine notes? Last month we asked how many of you take notes on the wines you taste, and found - to nobody's great surprise - that more than one-third of us take notes on all or most of the wines we taste, and well over half of us record our tasting experiences at least regularly. This week we return to the same issue from a somewhat different perspective, seeking to learn what media we use for taking wine notes, and what we do with the notes once we have them. I hope you'll take a moment to drop by the Wine Lovers' Voting Booth, http://www.wineloverspage.com/votebooth, and add your opinion to the list.
Robert Parker's Wine Advisor & Cellar Manager
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If you'd like to talk about wine online with fellow wine enthusiasts around the world, we'd be delighted to have you join the interactive, international forums in our Wine Lovers' Discussion Group. Vol. 2, No. 39, Oct. 16, 2000
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