Vol. 1, No. 19, May 24, 1999
© Copyright 1999 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Getting out the cork
Naturally, I was delighted when I discovered the "two-winged" style of corkscrew with the twin levers you could work to make the job look easy ... and later, as I developed a reputation among my pals as a serious wine fancier, I learned to use the "Ah-So," a two-pronged device that you could work down the sides of the cork, then twist to get it out without using a screw at all. Later came the pocket ScrewPull, a trademarked device that's made of sleek, hard plastic and that makes the cork-extraction process just about foolproof. You can even buy lever-type models, hand-held or table-mounted, that pull corks in an assembly-line process. There are even such odd accessories as compressed-air devices that inject air into the bottle through a needle and gently push the cork out. (Warning: Some authorities caution that a bottle with a flaw in the glass could explode under the internal pressure generated by this device.)
Nowadays I've got a fair-size collection of corkscrews of various types, but you know what? More often than not, I'll end up using a standard waiter's corkscrew, the kind that looks a little bit like a pocket knife, with a handle, a fold-out screw, and a lever that swings out from the end to help pry the cork loose with all the savoir faire that I was seeking back before the first gray appeared in my hair.
We're featuring corkscrews in this week's Wine Lovers' Voting Booth, where I hope you'll take a moment to drop in and cast an online ballot for your favorite type. And, if you've got a favorite corkscrew or a good story on the subject, write me at email@example.com and tell me about it. And, as always, please don't hesitate to drop us a line if you'd like to comment on our topics and tasting notes, suggest a topic for a future bulletin, or just talk about wine.
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Bonarda, an unusual red grape from the Oltrepò Pavese region in Lombardy, Northern Italy, is one of those confusing varieties in which the same name pops up in different places attached to entirely different grapes; different wines bearing the same name are also found in the Piemonte and Argentina. This one, experts say, is probably the same as Croatina. Whatever it is, this wine is good ... unusually good, with noteworthy depth and complexity. Inky dark garnet in color, it offers black-fruit and floral aromas of roses, a whiff of anise and a subtle, earthy hints of "forest floor" and restrained "barnyard." Bright sour-cherry fruit flavors are structured with tart, lemony acidity. Full yet cleansing, it's a fine food wine. As a limited-production oddity, it may be hard to find, but if it turns up in your area, it's worth the toll. U.S. importer: Elizabeth Imports, Denver. (May 18, 1999)
FOOD MATCH: Conchiglie (shell pasta) tossed with Italian sausage, mozzarella and ricotta and a bit of fresh tomato sauce.
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