Markus and Liz BokischAlbariño, the Gastronomic Grape

Usage, Comparisons, Disputed Origins

I first began working with Albariño in Hawaii in the mid-'90s, finding its combination of tropical perfume, dryness, citrusy acidity and minerality to be a perfect match with dishes incorporating the briny tastes of island fish (especially moi, onaga and opakapaka) and fresh sea vegetables (like limu and ogo). Albariño responds particularly well to tart ingredients (particularly in seviches and adobo style seafoods); and the use of vinegars and citrus juices is certainly common enough in the Southeast Asian as well as Japanese (re ponzu) cuisines contributing to the state's cross-cultural culinary heritage.

Recently I also spent a year on the coast of Georgia, where I didn't have nearly as varied a culinary culture to work with; but typically medium bodied Albariño worked for me in many a multi-course/wine event as a good 'tweener - bridging the gap between, say, an appetizer served with lighter white and a white meat course calling for a fuller bodied white like Chardonnay. For example, we might start a meal with grilled Wild Georgia Shrimp washed down with a light, snappy champagne, progress to a zesty Albariño with blue crab cakes and sweet corn relish, before moving on to a heavier Chardonnay with a butter fried fish or creamed chicken and mushrooms (and eventually, of course, to Low Country barbecue and collard greens with a big, luscious Zinfandel or Petite Sirah).

In this respect, as a between-wine, Albariño serves a role similar to Pinot Gris, Grüner Veltliner, and dry style Rieslings. But there are differences advantageous to Albariño: Albariño is markedly crisper than Pinot Gris, with a more expansive, readily appealing stone fruitiness (i.e. peach, apricot, nectarine-like). A good Grüner Veltliner can be just as perfumed and minerally as an Albariño, but is also typically more acidic and austere. Both Riesling and Albariño are flowery and citrus scented; and in fact, in some quarters Albariño is still said to be a clone of Riesling supposedly transplanted by twelfth century German monks (with which the regularity council in Spain's Rias Baixas strongly disagrees, contending that the grape is indigenous to the Galicia). Be as it may, even the sharpest Albariño is rarely as tart, or fusel oil-like, as a dry style Riesling; but rather, typically creamy, even buttery in texture in a way Riesling never is.

In recent years Albariño has also been likened to a "light-weight Viognier," which is not just insulting, but absurdly inaccurate. Despite its Viognier-like floral fruitiness, the minerally notes typical of Albariño are almost never found in Viognier. Classic Albariño tends to be lighter in weight than a Viognier, and is also decidedly zestier in acidity - two qualities giving it a distinct advantage over Viognier in terms of seafood versatility (which is not to say Viognier is not as food-worthy - it's just different, asking for more aggressive, meatier matches in a fashion closer to Chardonnay than Albariño).

To deepen your understanding of Albariño, you do need to get a feel for its native Rias Baixas in Galicia, occupying the northeast corner of Spain directly north of Portugal along the Atlantic. Unlike the rest of Spain (associated with dry, hot landscapes) Rias Baixas is green and verdant; which also means heavy rainfall, high humidity, temperatures rarely above 86° F., but almost never below 50º. Albariño makes up close to 95% of Rias Baixas' plantings (about 7,500 acres total) simply because it is the only grape with thick enough skins and high enough phenolics to thrive in these severe conditions. Although vineyards were traditionally trained on pergolas to circulate air and avoid rot and mildew, modern day trellising and opened canopy management is prevalent today.

Like all great wine regions, Rias Baixas is a convergence of climate, soil and grape adaptation. Of its five recognized sub-zones, the finest is Val do Salnés, a gently rolling, alluvial basin situated at the northern end of this DO (Denominación de Origen). This is also the coolest, wettest section of Rias Baixas, but Albariño responds positively to Val do Salnés' well drained, rocky, pervasively granitic soils (even trellis posts are made out of granite rather than wood). In Rias Baixas, Albariño's lime/peach fruitiness, flinty minerality, and occasional salinity (derived from the sea salt saturated air) are as much reflections of the grape as terroir.

American Breakthroughs

So how has Albariño fared in the U.S. thus far? In the mid-'90s Louisa Lindquist (wife of Bob Lindquist of Qupe) planted the first commercial block of the grape in the Ibarra-Young Vineyard in Santa Ynez Valley, but Havens Wine Cellar produced the first bottling - a '99 made from a two year old Carneros/Napa Valley planting (the first vintage of Lindquist's Verdad Albariño was a 2000).

Both Lindquist and Michael Havens were inspired by the relatively cool, coastal, Rias Baixas-like climates of their respective terrains, and the results have been both brilliant and uneven. Early vintages of Havens have captured intensely honeyed, lime and pear-like aspects of Albariño; but on the palate, the grape's intrinsically high acidity, tough skins and dark seeds have been borne out by sharp, grapefruity, mildly bitter, ultimately austere sensations.

I've liked the Verdad Albariños a lot: similar to the Havens bottlings but even lusher in the nose - juicy pear and traces of minerality tinged with orange/lemon essences - and on the palate, the zesty, mouthwatering flavors possessing everything but the rounded, viscous, textured qualities Rias Baixas grown Albariños seem to attain with ease.

In 2000 I paid a visit to Abacela in Southern Oregon's Umqua Valley; a hillside vineyard dedicated to Spanish varieties (although a source of intense Syrahs as well). Proprietor Earl Jones didn't have any Albariño that he felt strong enough to show me at that time, but I've since showcased some of his Tempranillo (strikingly original, dense, leathery, liqueur-like concentrations) in my restaurants.

But here in 2008, the plantings I'm most excited about are those of Markus and Liz Bokisch in Lodi (pictured above). The Bokischs are major grape growers in the region; farming some 1,300 acres, mostly in the hillier eastern end of the AVA, the grapes (a good proportion of it Syrah) going to some 115 different wineries. 50 acres of Bokisch Ranches are planted to Spanish grapes; and out of that, about 7 acres end up under the Bokisch Vineyards label.

There's some salient history behind the Bokischs' devotion to Spanish grapes. In the late 1990s Markus was charged by Joseph Phelps Vineyards to source Rhône varieties for the winery's Vin de Mistral line. It was while driving back and forth between Napa Valley and Lodi that Markus became inspired; the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta reminding him of the Delta del Ebro in Spain where many of his close relatives still live (although Markus was raised in California, he spent many childhood summers in Catalonia). After leaving Joseph Phelps, Liz and Markus moved to Spain to work in the Spanish wine industry; before returning to California in 1995 to start their own grape growing business.

Hence, the Bokisch brand specializes strictly in Albariño, Garnacha, Graciano and Tempranillo. The reds are solid and still evolving - their velvety Graciano (a companion piece to Tempranillo in Rioja) showing the most complete qualities - but it is the Bokisch Albariño that really shines. Early vintages of Bokisch Albariño were estate grown blends from two of Lodi's sub-regions: one from a three acre "mother block" (behind their home) falling within the Mokelumne River AVA, a flat site sitting in relatively deep, silty alluvial loam typifying Lodi's oldest growths; and the other from their Terra Alta Vineyard falling within the Clements Hills AVA, in a slightly higher elevation, sloping, shallow (three feet), volcanic gravelly loam over hard clay, typical of eastern Lodi where it transitions into the Sierra Foothills.

Since the summation of degree days in Lodi is low Region IV - a warm Mediterranean climate, resembling center-of-Spain more than to Atlantic coastal Spain - it has been interesting to see how the originally cold-climate adapted Albariño has adjusted to this part of California. In the 2007 vintage the Bokischs split their production into the two appellations, Mokelumne River and Clements Hills. My notes, gathered at their dining room table this past June:

2007 Bokisch Vineyards, Clements Hills (Lodi, California)
This bottling is a success because it retains all the fresh, natural acidity associated with the grape without excess sharpness, as well as the lithe, flowing, creamy textured feel that distinguishes Spanish grown Albariño. As you would expect, the warmer climate yields a distinctly Californian tropical accent in the nose - flower and mandarin orange mixed with sweet apple and apricot-like varietal notes - and the body veers into a full rather than medium range. Otherwise, the flavors are crackling crisp, mildly grapefruity, pushing the apricot qualities into a long, lush finish.

2007 Bokisch Vineyards, Mokelumne River (Lodi, California)
To counteract the deeper, more moisture retentive soil, the Bokischs' Las Cerezas Vineyard is a high density planting (5' by 5' spacing); this competitive environment yielding intense varietal fruitiness along with slightly fatter, almost buttery textured qualities (none of the Bokischs see any oak). Orange/tangerine aromas are tinged by tropical flower and pineappley fragrances; and on the palate, these qualities turn citrusy and apricot-like, finishing lightly tart, soft and easy.

Six from Rias Baixas

This past June I also had the opportunity to taste five Spanish Albariños in one sitting; a process revealing some pleasing variations of style and distinctions. All are excellent, but in order of my preference:

2007 Albariño de Fefiñanes (Rias Baixas, Spain)
Imported by Fran Kysela MS, Palacios de Fefiñanes makes a sleek yet razor sharp, subtly intense style, starting with the full varietal armament of minerals, wildflower, and peachy stone fruitiness in the nose. Zesty, medium weight, sinewy and steely on the palate, releasing crisp apple/pear sensations in the finish.

2007 Martín Códax (Rias Baixas, Spain)
Based in the Salnés Valley, this bodega produces Albariño under three labels; its value priced Burgáns, in particular, being a softer, deliciously peach infused example of the grape (and a great introduction for first-timers). The '07 exemplifies the more complex bottlings under the Códax label; beginning with fruit forward peach and nectarine aromas harmonized with citrus, with violet/lavendery notes in the backdrop. Tart edged and medium bodied on the palate, the lemon and peach qualities mingling with subtle yet distinctively minerally sensations.

2007 Paco & Lola (Rias Baixas, Spain)
This firm is owned by a cooperative of some 400 growers concentrated in Val do Salnés, and distributed in the U.S. by Jess Jackson's Sovereign Wine Imports. The advantage is than their winemaker culls only the growers' best fruit (less than 30% of production) for this bottling, which portrays more lavender and violet scented, distinctively kitchen herby (basil leafy) sides of the grape, with a vibrant, citrusy tart fruitiness finishing light and easy. About 10,000 cases yearly.

2006 Morgadio (Rias Baixas, Spain)
Adegas Morgadio is a 50 acre estate imported by Steve Metzler's Classical Wines, who pioneered the distribution of handcrafted Spanish wines in the U.S., beginning in the late '80s. The vineyard lies in the sub-zone of Condado de Tea; situated further from the Atlantic coast, a cooler, less humid, more rugged higher elevation (up to 750 feet) terroir than Val do Salnés, and producing a somewhat lighter yet lively, fragrant style of Albariño. The '06 is honeyed, nearly tropical in the nose, with tangerine and lime nuances; crisp, creamy textured flavors finishing fresh and clean.

2006 Adegas Valmiñor (Rias Baixas, Spain)
Kysela's "value" import, this is a more strongly chalky mineral style of Albariño, its subtle pear/apple and wildflower notes tucked beneath the stony profile. The feel is lightly tart, and the body on the light side of medium; lime, chalk and anise-like flavors finishing light and easy on the palate.

2006 Don Olegario (Rias Baixas, Spain)
This Val do Salnés family estate produces a denser, sharper style than what many Albariño drinkers may be accustomed to. Whipped cream and lemon prevail over hints of white peach in the nose; on the palate, a citrus tartness leads off, followed by dry, stony, almost licorice-like qualities, but finishing with a touch of sweet apple laced with lemon.

To contact Randy Caparoso, write him at randycaparoso@earthlink. net.

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