As usual for the event's Friday dinner, Master Sommelier Madeline Triffon, an old friend of MoCool, presided over the wine choices and food-and-wine matching.
Five wines were served before dinner with hors d'oeuvres:
Chateau Mourgues du Gres 2000 Costieres du Nimes "Les Galets Rosés" - Bright cherry red. Fruity and crisp, strawberries.
San de Guilhem 2000 Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne - Grassy, herbaceous. Full and tart, grassiness predominates.
Cuvee Guilheuret 1998 "Clos Thou" Jurançon Sec - Faint white fruit and caramel. Nutty-creamy, a hint of oxidation, typical of Jurançon.
Guilhem Durand 1999 Syrah Vin de Pays d'Hauterive - Peppery, earthy, a whiff of the barnyard. Very good value wine.
With the first course, celery root vichyssolse with seared crevettes and papaya:
Vilmart 1993 Champagne "Coeur de Cuvé" - Pale gold, with tiny persistent bubbles. Toast and milk chocolate; crisp, creamy and dry. Delicious, and a fine match with the cool, herbal soup.
Schoffit 1999 Tokay Pinot Gris "Cuvé Tradition" - White fruit and wool, rich and full. Well-matched with the vichyssoise.
With the second course, sea bass Provencale with white beans, tomatoes, fennel and herbes de Provence:
Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte 1998 Blanc - Clear straw. Herbal white fruit aroma, surprisingly oaky for a Bordeaux; could almost pass for a Chardonnay. Big and structured, almost objectionablyh woody, a New World-style wine with an Old World label. The food match improves it some, but it's hard to get past the oak.
Dujac 1996 Morey St. Denis - Light ruby. Smoky ripe cherry aromas, fresh and ripe; good structure. Its light, fresh fruit doesn't overwhelm the bass.
With the principal course, roasted beef tenderloin Bordelaise with crispy potato galette and bouquetière of summer vegetables:
Michel Perraud 1999 Cornas "Le Vignon" - Inky reddish-purple. Peppery, grapey, full and fiercely tannic. Very young, but the roast beef tames the tannins to make a good match.
Les Forts de Latour 1996 - Very dark garnet. Blackcurrant and cedar, classic Bordeaux. Good balance and structure, fine with the beef.
With dessert, bittersweet callebaut chocolate souffle raspberry chantilly:
Docteur Parce 1993 Domaine du Mas Blanc "Rimage Mise Tardive" Banyuls - Ruby-amber. "Rancio" style, a planned oxidation is part of its character; but serious volatily is not. Stronglly vinegary elements detract badly from sweet-tart fruit flavor. A near-disaster.