© 2008 by Randy Buckner
September 2008
This month the focus is on Washington wines. The Washington wine industry has grown by leaps and bounds. I can remember back not too many years ago when there were 70 wineries in the state. The number has now grown to more than 500 wineries.
Wine quality has grown right along with the wineries. Washington is a force to be reckoned with in the New World. They are no longer playing second-fiddle; they have taken the lead.
Another 100 new and current releases are presented for your inspection. The dual rating system evaluates quality (the first number) and value (the second) on a 100-point scale. All wines are tasted from Riedel Vinum glasses after breathing for one hour. No wines scoring below 80 points are listed. All prices are the manufacturer's suggested retail price. Vendor prices are often less expensive. As always, enjoy a bottle with dinner tonight.
Cabernet Franc
2005 Northwest Totem Cellars, Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, Washington, $30. The nose is highlighted by aromas of black fruits, coffee beans, coconut and spice. Full and flavorful in the mouth, you'll find a very harmonious wine with ample tannins to age a while; 89/90.
2006 Three Rivers, Cabernet Franc, Weinbau Vineyard, Wahluke Slope, Washington, $39, 116 cases. Aromas of black cherries, blueberries and spice abound on the nose. Well balanced and fruity in the mouth, the flavors echo the nose. Tannins are firm but rounded; the finish long and juicy; 88/88.
Cabernet Sauvignon
2005 Abeja, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington, $35. Mixed red and black fruit aromas, sweet oak and licorice radiate from this deep ruby wine and carry over to the palate. Medium to full in the mouth, you'll appreciate the silky tannins caressing the palate; 90/90.
2005 àMaurice, Red Wine Blend, Columbia Valley, Washington, $35. A blend of the five classic Bordeaux grapes, this wine displays a lovely mix of red and black fruits on the nose and palate. Oak spice, vanilla and berries linger on the finish; 89/89.
2005 Chateau Rollat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Edouard, Walla Walla, Washington, $62. Deep ruby in color with black fruit, licorice and sweet oak aromas. Medium to full bodied, the wine is fruity and well balanced, with silky tannins evident on the long finish; 90/89.
2005 Chateau Rollat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rollat, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $38. Cherries, berries and coconut combine on the nose and palate. Fruit forward, the wine is juicy and friendly; 88/88.
2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cold Creek Vineyard, Columbia Valley, Washington, $28, 5,400 cases. Very deeply hued, with black fruit, toasty French oak and dark chocolate aromas. Medium to full in the mouth, with generous but ripe tannins, the flavors echo the nose; 88/88.
2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington, $16, 167,400 cases. Easy to approach now, this straightforward quaffer will pair well with grilled foods. Enjoy early on for the mixed red and black fruits; 84/84.
2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ethos, Columbia Valley, Washington, $38, 1,800 cases. Aromas and flavors of blackberries, chocolate, cedar and vanilla finish long and satisfying. Firm, rounded tannins demand bottle time; 89/89.
2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Meritage, Artist Series, Columbia Valley, Washington, $48, 1,400 cases. A pleasant mix of red and black fruits, oak and vanilla presents on the nose and palate. Seamless and elegant, with silky tannins; 88/88.
2006 Dusted Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington, $26, 896 cases. The palate is more expressive than the nose at this point, with complex sweet black fruit abounding. The long berry finish is endless; 90/91.
2005 Kenwood, Cabernet Sauvignon, Jack London Vineyard, Sonoma Valley, California, $35, 14,200 cases. Almost black in the glass, the wine reveals aromas and flavors of blackberries, cedar and crushed mint leaf, backed by generous but rounded tannins; 86/86.
2005 Kenwood, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, California, $18, 64,000 cases. This deeply-hued wine is soft and easy to drink, with straightforward black fruits, mint and vanilla; 83/83.
2006 Magnificent Wine Co., Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington, $20. Cherry cola and cedar aromas repeat on the palate. Medium bodied, with soft tannins, this is a nice quaffer for BBQ; 83/83.
2005 Northwest Totem Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elerding Vineyard, Yakima Valley, Washington, $30, 183 cases. Aromas of blackberries, toasty oak and vanilla spice follows through on the palate. Medium bodied, with silky tannins, this is a wine to drink over the next few years with a NY strip steak; 89/90.
2005 Northwest Totem Cellars, Low Man Red, Columbia Valley, Washington, $30, 150 cases. This purple/red Bordeaux blend displays aromas of black cherries, mixed berries, mocha and vanilla. Silky on the entry, the wine has complex flavors riding on a medium framework; 89/90.
2005 Otis Kenyon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $32, 473 cases. Aromas of blackberries, cassis and allspice unfold on the nose. Medium bodied, smooth and elegant in the mouth, this is perfect for those weary of heavy reds; 90/90.
2005 Sapolil, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pepper Bridge Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $43. Full and lush, with very manageable tannins, the wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of black cherry liqueur, cassis and cedar. A hint of peppery herbs adds character; 89/89.
2005 Souverain, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, California, $22. Mixed black fruits, coffee beans, vanilla and Baker's chocolate unfold on the nose and expand on the palate. Tannins dictate bottle time; 85/86.
2005 Spring Valley Vineyard, Derby, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $50. 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is reminiscent of blackberry cobbler. Medium bodied, lush and fruity, the wine is very polished and easy to drink; 90/90.
2005 Spring Valley Vineyard, Frederick, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $50. Frederick is a Cabernet Sauvignon predominant Bordeaux blend. Built on a medium to full framework, the wine is generous and muscular. Blackberries, licorice and sweet oak linger on the lengthy finish; 90/90.
2006 Three Rivers, Cabernet Sauvignon, Minnick Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $39, 135 cases. Cassis, blackberries and violets carry the nose of this deep-ruby wine, while black fruits dominate the palate. Nicely structured; 88/88.
2005 Trust Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington, $36. Rich berry, chocolate and cigar leaf aromas repeat on the palate. Modest tannins are well-rounded; 87/87.
2005 Valley of the Moon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, California, $20, 4,300 cases. Aromas and flavors of red and black fruits, eucalyptus and barrel notes are backed by crisp acids and silky tannins; 85/85.
Chardonnay
2006 Abeja, Chardonnay, Washington State, $32. They used tight-grained oak with this wine, which shows. Apples and pears predominate, with just a touch of vanilla, finishing long, crisp and clean; 90/90.
2006 àMaurice, Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, Washington, $28. Here's a nice summer quaff. Medium bodied, balanced, with nicely-integrated oak, the aromas and flavors speak of apples, white peaches and a hint of butter; 88/88.
2006 Buty, Chardonnay, Conner Lee Vineyard, Columbia Valley, Washington, $35. Peaches, apricots and a hint of butter define the wine. Full and crisp, this Chardonnay is very pretty upfront but drops off quickly; 87/86.
2006 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Chardonnay, Ethos, Columbia Valley, Washington, $32, 2,400 cases. Smoky oak, lees, butter and pears carry across the board. Creamy and lush, but soft; 87/87.
2006 Dusted Valley, Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, Washington, $22, 750 cases. Barrel fermented in neutral oak, the wine shows excellent harmony of fruit and oak. Nuances of pears and white peaches are backed by bright acids; 89/90.
2006 Forgeron, Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, Washington, $25. Straw gold. Crisp and fruity in the mouth, with just a touch of wood, the wine is dominated by green apple and peach nuances; 89/89.
2006 Rulo, Chardonnay, Birch Creek Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $20. This well-balanced Chardonnay shows apples, cloves, butter and lees across the board. It displays nice balance of components; 88/89.
2006 Rulo, Chardonnay, Sundance Vineyard, Wahluke Slope, Washington, $20. Only stainless steel is used here, allowing the apple and pear fruit to shine. Crisp and refreshing, this Chardonnay should pair nicely with rotisserie chicken; 90/91.
Gewurztraminer
2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley, Washington, $10, 90,000 cases. Soft, simple, fruity and off-dry, the wine is underscored by nectarines and white flowers; 83/84.
2007 Sleight of Hand, The Magician, Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley, Washington, $17. Here's a light, refreshing wine that speaks of apples and pears. You'll find threshold sweetness - perfect for a Thai salad; 87/87.
2007 Three Rivers, Late Harvest Gewurztraminer, Biscuit Ridge Vineyard, Walla Walla, Washington, $15 (375 ml), 1,347 cases. Lychee fruit, pears and mandarin oranges carry throughout, but acidity is lacking for the 7.5 percent residual sugar; 86/87.
Malbec
2005 àMaurice, Malbec, Columbia Valley, Washington, $34. Sporting a youthful purple color, the wine is highlighted by black fruits, white pepper and a hint of leather. Tart and flavorful, this should go well with grilled steaks; 88/88.
2006 Dusted Valley, Malbec, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $32, 93 cases. You'll find rich red and black fruits, licorice, vanilla, soft tannins and a long, sweet fruit finish; 87/87.
2006 Three Rivers, Malbec, Columbia Valley, Washington, $29, 420 cases. Purple-red in color, with aromas of blueberries, blackberries and floral notes. Elegant and balanced, with silky tannins and flavors that echo the nose; 89/89.
Merlot
2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Merlot, Ethos, Columbia Valley, Washington, $38, 1,900 cases. Black cherries, vanilla and dusty notes underscore the wine. Medium to full in the mouth, the wine has an elegant approach and a long fruity finish; 88/88.
2004 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Merlot, Indian Wells, Columbia Valley, Washington, $18, 6,000 cases. This deep ruby wine gives off aromas and flavors of black cherries, licorice, chocolate, cedar and dill spice. Medium bodied, fruity and food friendly; 87/89.
2003 Forgeron, Merlot, Columbia Valley, Washington, $27. Silky, fruity and easy to drink, this Merlot is highlighted by black fruits, plums and cedar; 88/88.
2006 Montes, Merlot, Classic Series, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $13. Spicy oak, blackberries and pepper highlight the nose. Very harmonious in the mouth, with black fruits and dried herbs; 84/85.
2005 Otis Kenyon, Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $30, 341 cases. Medium bodied and elegant, this wine exudes sweet black cherry and raspberry fruit, with a dusty chocolate component adding interest; 91/91.
2005 Spring Valley Vineyard, Mule Skinner, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $50. Bright cassis and raspberry aromas and flavors are presented in a full, silky smooth package. Tannins firm up on the back end. Cellar a few years for optimal enjoyment; 90/90. 2005 Spring Valley Vineyard, Uriah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $50. This Merlot predominant Bordeaux blend is all about red berry fruit. Medium to full in the mouth, the firm tannins are well rounded, finishing with a long, juicy aftertaste; 90/90.
Miscellaneous
2007 Ardenvoir, Semillon, Columbia Valley, Washington, $22. The wine is barrel fermented in French oak, which gives a rich, creamy feel without overwhelming the wine. Peaches, pears and citrus rind underscore the aromas and flavors; 90/90.
2007 Barefoot Cellars, Moscato, California, $7, 250,000 cases. Highlighted by tangerines, pears and floral notes, this soft, sweet wine is a match for sweet Asian dishes; 82/83.
2006 Buty, Sem-Chard, Columbia Valley, Washington, $25. Medium bodied and quite aromatic, this crisp, nicely-balanced wine is all about figs and lemons. Think shellfish; 90/90.
NV Eaton Hill, Orange Muscat, Yakima Valley, Washington, $NA. This straw-gold wine is intensely aromatic and grapey on the nose, but it is not nearly as concentrated on the palate. Acids are very soft; 83/NA.
2007 Forgeron, Roussanne, Columbia Valley, Washington, $23, 164 cases. This lovely wine displays honeysuckle, peach and mandarin orange aromas and flavors in a generous package. Crisp acidity gives lift; 91/91.
NV Forgeron, Walldeaux Smithie, Columbia Valley, Washington, $16. This simple, fruity quaffer should be ideal for BBQs, given its cola, cherry and smoky nuances; 84/85.
2005 Otis Kenyon, Matchless Red Table Wine, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $26, 290 cases. Here's a light, delicate red with silky tannins and a long aftertaste of cherries, berries and herbs. This will pair well with a host of foods; 87/87.
NV Sleight of Hand, The Spellbinder, Red Blend, Columbia Valley, Washington, $18. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Soft, light and very approachable right now, this will pair with everything from baked chicken to grilled steaks; 87/88.
2006 Sleight of Hand, The Spellbinder, Red Blend, Columbia Valley, Washington, $19. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Sangiovese. Black fruits and plums define the aroma and flavor profile. Soft tannins make this wine a nice match for BBQ tonight; 87/88.
2006 Three Rivers, Tempranillo, Columbia Valley, Washington, $29, 95 cases. Crisp, balanced, fruity and tannic - lay this one down a while to let the mixed red and black fruits come together and the tannins to tame; 87/87.
2006 Walla Walla Vintners, Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, Washington, $24. Very crisp and flavorful, this is a nice example of what Washington can do with this grape. Dark fruits, leather and spice are backed by nicely integrated oak; 88/88.
Pinot Gris
2007 Barefoot Cellars, Pinot Grigio, California, $7, 279,000 cases. Soft, simple and quaffable, I'd enjoy this now for the floral, white peach and citrus notes; 80/80.
2007 J, Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley, California, $20, 17,500 cases. Aromas of pears, honeysuckle and tangerines radiate from this straw-gold wine. Elegant, full and fruity in the mouth, this wine is a no-brainer for your favorite shellfish accompaniment; 90/90.
2007 King Estate, Pinot Gris, Oregon, $17. Aromas and flavors speak of peaches, tangerines and citrus peel. Soft and light, this is perfect for steamed crab; 87/87.
2007 Waterbrook, Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, Washington, $12, 3,067 cases. Tropical fruit and citrus zest carries the wine. Straightforward, with food-friendly acidity, this is a nice match for steamed shellfish; 84/85.
Pinot Noir
2006 J, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, California, $38, 21,057 cases. Aromas and flavors speak of red cherries, mushrooms, cedar and spice. Medium bodied, crisp and balanced, this one is very food-friendly; 90/90.
2006 Magnificent Wine Co., Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley, Washington, $20, 1,423 cases. Characterized by tart cherries and earth/mushrooms, the wine is soft and simple on the palate; 82/82.
Riesling
2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Riesling, Cold Creek Vineyard, Columbia Valley, Washington, $14, 4,500 cases. Soft, sweet and fruity, with nuances of white peaches, pineapples and minerals; 84/84.
2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington, $12, 37,000 cases. This off-dry, straightforward quaffer will pair well with a cheese and fruit plate. Enjoy now for the stone fruit and minerals; 83/84.
2007 Eaton Hill, Riesling, McGuire Vineyards, Yakima Valley, Washington, $NA. Straw colored, with peaches, apricots and citrus rind throughout. Off-dry, crisp and fruity; 85/NA.
2007 Magnificent Wine Co., Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington, $15, 2,600 cases. Highlighted by pears, apricots and honeysuckle, the wine is crisp, with threshold sweetness - pair with Asian dishes; 86/87.
2007 Substance, Riesling, Re, Columbia Valley, Washington, $18. Soft, off-dry and clean, with aromas and flavors of melons and peaches; 85/85.
Rosé
2007 Ardenvoir, Rosé, Columbia Valley, Washington, $16. Sporting threshold sweetness, this light-pink wine has aromas and flavors of berries and cotton candy; 87/88.
2007 Beast (Buty), Malbec Rosé, Lefore Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $25. Light pink in color, the aromas are reminiscent of cotton candy and pomegranates. The strawberry and sand plum flavors are backed by crisp acids and a hint of sweetness; 90/90.
2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Dry Rosé, Nellie's Garden, Columbia Valley, Washington, $13, 22,000 cases. Sporting a pretty watermelon color, this dry, fruity wine is highlighted by rhubarb and red berry nuances; 85/86.
2007 Eaton Hill, Rosé de Franc, Eaton Hill Vineyards, Yakima Valley, Washington, $NA. Nuances of plums, cherries and leather carry from the nose to the palate. It's easy to drink right now with grilled foods; 85/NA.
2007 Rulo, Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $15. A rosé of Syrah, this medium-bodied wine presents strawberry and sand plum aromas and flavors, with a long, lovely finish. Good value; 90/92.
2007 Trust Cellars, Rosé of Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, Washington, $16. This blush-colored with has a pretty classic Cab Franc nose. Off-dry, soft and fruity; 85/85.
Sauvignon Blanc
2006 Montes, Sauvignon Blanc, Classic Series, Casablanca-Curico Valleys, Chile, $13. The gooseberry and tropical fruit aromas morph into lemon-lime flavors. Lean, crisp and made for shellfish; 84/84.
2007 Rulo, Sauvignon Blanc, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $15. Here's a match for a plate of oysters on the half-shell. Lean and crisp, the wine has lemon tanginess, with a hint of grassiness. Bottled under screw caps; 87/87.
2007 Waterbrook, Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, Washington, $12, 5,970 cases. This light gold wine gives off aromas of melons and cut grass. Bright acids and citrus fruit dominates the palate; 84/85.
Sparkling Wine
NV Domaine Ste. Michelle, Blanc de Blanc, Columbia Valley, Washington, $12. A medium-fine bead courses its way through this straw-gold sparkler, delivering stone fruit and melon aromas. Crisp and bright on the palate, lemon and peach flavors dominate; 85/87.
NV Domaine Ste. Michelle, Blanc de Noir, Columbia Valley, Washington, $12. Sporting a salmon-pink color, this sparkler is underscored by strawberry and red cherry aromas and flavors, backed by bright acidity and a hint of sweetness; 84/86.
NV Domaine Ste. Michelle, Brut, Columbia Valley, Washington, $12. Delicately sweet, with bright acidity, the medium bead carries pear and citrus nuances. Pair with ahi sushi or sashimi; 84/86.
NV Domaine Ste. Michelle, Extra Dry, Columbia Valley, Washington, $12. Highlighted by pears and kiwi fruit, the delicate sweetness and balancing acidity makes this a nice match for baked bay scallops; 84/86.
2001 Domaine Ste. Michelle, Luxe, Columbia Valley, Washington, $23. This vintage is not up to par with prior offerings. It is very ripe, with a bitter bite and soft acidity. Toasty nuances and roasted nuts add some character; 82/82.
NV Domaine Ste. Michelle, Spumante Frizzante, Columbia Valley, Washington, $12. Sweet at 4.3 percent residual sugar, with barely adequate acidity, the wine delivers pear, apple and citrus aromas and flavors; 83/84.
Syrah
2006 Abeja, Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $32. Intensely fruity without being jammy, this medium to full wine is characterized by smoked meat, black fruits and cedar. Silky and elegant, the wine carries the 14.6 percent alcohol well; 91/91.
2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Syrah, Ethos, Columbia Valley, Washington, $28, 1,500 cases. Almost black in the glass, this Syrah radiates aromas of blackberries, smoked meat and cedar. Elegant and food friendly, this one screams BBQ; 89/90.
2006 Dusted Valley, Syrah, Reserve, Columbia Valley, Washington, $35, 244 cases. Black fruit and sweet oak highlight the nose and palate. Balanced, lush and deep - give it time to shed its baby fat; 90/90.
2006 Dusted Valley, Syrah, Stained Tooth, Columbia Valley, Washington, $24, 972 cases. I could be fooled into believing this is a Yann Chave Crozes-Hermitage. Medium bodied, balanced and crisp, the aromas and flavors speak of smoked meats and black fruits; 90/92.
2006 Dusted Valley, Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $28, 412 cases. This one is very Rhone-like, with black fruit and smoked game. You'll find an earthy, fruity finish; 89/90.
2006 Magnificent Wine Co., Syrah, Columbia Valley, Washington, $20, 2,436 cases. Here's another simple, approachable quaffer for those grilled meats, highlighted by blackberries, blueberries, smoke and spice; 84/85.
2005 Northwest Totem Cellars, Syrah, Columbia Valley, Washington, $30, 185 cases. Almost black in the glass, the aromas speak of black fruit, smoke and mocha nuances. The wine is well balanced but angular, with black fruit and coffee dominating the palate; 86/87.
2005 Rulo, Syrah, Columbia Valley, Washington, $24. Deeply hued, full and friendly, this wine displays smoked meats and black fruit throughout. It is easy to drink right now given its welcoming tannins; 90/91.
2005 Sapolil, Syrah, Dwelley Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $35. This deeply-hued Syrah exudes black fruit. Medium to full in the mouth, the wine has a crisp, tannic backbone and a long finish; 89/89.
2005 Sapolil, Syrah, Patina Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $38. This Syrah is almost black in the glass. Rich and ripe, the sweet black fruit is backed by firm, rounded tannins. There's no rush to drink this one - let it age; 91/91.
2006 Sapolil, Syrah, Patina Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $38. This vintage pushes the ripeness level. Deeply hued, the wine is packed with mixed black fruits and cedary notes; 88/88.
2006 Trust, Syrah, Columbia Valley, Washington, $28. Purple-red in color with berries and cherries abounding on the nose, the wine is soft, fruity and well balanced; 87/87.
Viognier
2007 Abeja, Viognier, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $28. Very aromatic, with honeysuckle abounding, this wine has very nice acidity for a Viognier. Generous and fruity in the mouth, with a bit of heat from the 14.5 percent alcohol; 88/88.
2007 àMaurice, Viognier, Columbia Valley, Washington, $25. Viognier does very well in Washington, and this is a prime example. Honeysuckle and peaches underscore the wine. Displaying excellent depth, this crisp, flavorful offering has an endless finish; 91/92.
2007 Dusted Valley, Viognier, Yakima, Washington, $30, 271 cases. Very floral and fruity on the nose and palate, honeysuckle and peaches predominating, with very nice acidity and depth; 90/90.
2006 Northwest Totem Cellars, Late Harvest Viognier, Elerding Vineyard, Yakima Valley, Washington, $28 (375 ml). Honey, tangerine, peach and white flower scents fill the nose. Rich and sweet on the palate, the flavors mirror the nose. With more acidity to stand up to the residual sugar, this would be a 90+ bottle; 87/87.
2006 Rulo, Viognier, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $18. Pleasantly aromatic, this full, generous Viognier is quite flavorful, with tropical fruits abounding on the nose and palate. Terrific value; 90/92.
Zinfandel
2005 Forgeron, Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, Washington, $30. Brown sugar and black fruit highlights carry from nose to mouth. Crisp, with forgiving tannins, the finish is long and satisfying; 87/87.
