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J. Lassalle non-vintage Champagne 1er Cru ($29.99)
LassalleThis small but respected producer makes a sparkling wine that's both rich and balanced, a fine way to see out the Old Year and toast the New. Pale gold, with abundant, lasting bubbles, it offers full, fresh scents of apples with a pleasant overtone of cocoa. Full-bodied and "toasty," zippy acidity and apple fruit combine in a creamy flavor and long, clean finish. U.S. importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Dec. 31, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Couldn't ask for a better match with New Year's Eve dinner: Steaming, rich oyster stew, and blini with sour cream and caviar.

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