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Villadoria 1997 Dolcetto d'Alba ($15/restaurant)
Very dark garnet, with delicious red-fruit and fennel aromas. Soft and juicy berry fruit flavor with good, tart acidity to give it structure. Excellent table red, and a particularly good value at Giuseppe's, one of our favorite family Italian restaurants in North Palm Beach. (Based on this restaurant price, package retail should be under $10.) U.S. importer: Opici Import Co., Hawthorne, N.J. (Dec. 13, 1999)
FOOD MATCH: Perfect with manicotti, grilled eggplant and other Italian-American fare.
Bera 1997 Dolcetto d'Alba ($12.99)
Very dark garnet, showing black-fruit and licorice aromas framed by tar and smoke, characteristic Piemontese red. Big, "chewy" flavors, fresh fruit and aromatics that follow the nose. Intriguing wine, big and sturdy, seems more like a Barbera than a Dolcetto. Notes consistent with my May 1, 1999 tasting. U.S. importer: Pellegrini Bros. Wines Inc., South San Francisco. (Dec. 15, 1999)
FOOD MATCH: Works well with a hearty Burgundian dish of pork spareribs braised in red wine with beans.
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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.|
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