© Copyright 1998 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
Boutari 1996 Santorini ($12.99)
An ancient wine from one of the most popular and beautiful Greek islands, this Santorini offers considerable flavor interest, but it's an idiosyncratic flavor, well off the bell curve for white table wine. Pale gold in color, it shows a very faint pinkish hue in the glass. Its strongly perfumed scent shows startling elements of mint and pine, with almost a resinous touch that may represent no more than an elusive mental association with Greek retsina. Full, bright white fruit makes the flavor more attractive than the nose, with mint present but not as dominant as in the scent. It comes across as bone-dry when served, but a very slight fruity sweetness appears as it warms in the glass. Sharp acidity adds a cleansing element in the finish that makes it a particularly good match with seafood. Tasty, interesting wine, but pushing the limits of value at this price. U.S. importer: Paterno Imports Ltd., Chicago. (Dec. 1, 1998)
FOOD MATCH: Outstanding with Mediterranean cuisine, a Genoese-style bluefish baked on potatoes with lots of olive oil and garlic and a Greek-style salad with plenty of Calamata olives and feta cheese.
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