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Melini 1991 Vigneti la Selvanella Chianti Classico Riserva ($18.99)
MeliniVery dark ruby, with ripe black cherries and heady floral aromas, roses and herbs. Full and juicy fruit flavors perfectly balanced with lemon-squirt acidity; plummy, slightly bitter, with tannins all but resolved. I'm not sure why this nine-year-old was still in retail channels recently, but I'm glad it was; it's a delightful wine, so fruity that you want to gulp it, but complex enough to call for contemplation. U.S. importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons Ltd., NYC (Nov. 30, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Makes a perfect marriage with pan-grilled filet mignons.
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