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Saracco Saracco 1998 Moscato d'Asti ($11.39)
Lightly carbonated, fruit-sweet with a gentle acidic tang, Moscato d'Asti resembles nothing so much as ginger ale for grown-ups. This is a good one, a very pale straw color with light carbonation that foams up with a frothy fizz in the glass. Delicious peach and grapefruit aromas lead into a crisp, tart and light flavor, sweet as syrup with balancing acidity and a fresh prickle on the tongue. A pleasant aperitif, but it's not out of place at the dinner table. U.S. importer: Vin Divino Ltd., Chicago. (Nov. 29, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Surprisingly attractive match with a simple variation on soupe de Nevers, carrots and Brussels sprouts in clear broth.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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