[Image: Bunch of Grapes]
Today's Wine Tasting Note

© Copyright 1997 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.


Dr. Loosen

This reproduction of the wine label comes from the Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues/Mosel, Website, which is available in English and auf Deutsch.

I've been hearing good things about Rudi Wiest, a U.S. importer of German wines whose eye for a good bottle is said to be right up there with the always reliable Terry Theise. This fine example certainly substantiates that report.

This six-year-old Mosel Riesling gives a delicious hint of the glories that await wine lovers who have the patience to cellar the top German wines of the Rhine and the Mosel. Its complexity and structure place it in the top rank of table wines, although -- even in this bone-dry example -- the stylistic difference between German wines and most of the rest of the world's table wines can't be ignored. I find quality German wines very enjoyable indeed, but they do require a paradigm shift if you've been drinking French or Italian table wines and their New World analogues.

Dr. Loosen 1991 Erdener Treppchen (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Riesling Kabinett ($13.99)
Clear straw color. Fresh apple and pine scents with musky notes, all overridden by the odd but appealing "petrol" scent of older Riesling. Full and tart sour-apple and tangerine fruit, highly acidic and fully dried out with age, no perceptible natural sweetness remaining. Clean apple and citrus persist in a long finish. Importer: Cellars International Inc. (Rudi Wiest), Carlsbad, Calif. (Nov. 25, 1997)

FOOD MATCH: This might be as much of a heritage thing as a wine-and-food thing, but this one went exceptionally well with a German-style dinner of boneless rolled pork loin roasted on a bed of sauerkraut laced with caraway seeds and dark beer.

All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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