Wine Lovers' Page: Stony Ridge non-vintage California Nebbiolo

Today's Wine Tasting Note

My pal Anne at the biggest and best wine shop in town touted this one highly, and she's almost always a reliable guide, so I gave it a try. My conclusion? Well ... maybe. But it's still mighty tough for California to produce an "Italian" wine as well as the Italians do. Nebbiolo, the classic red grape of the Piemonte in Northwestern Italy, is one of the world's most noble grapes, reaching its pinnacle in Barolo and the other great, ageworthy Piemontese reds.

This one is certainly no Barolo, although it might possibly pass for a decent Dolcetto. It's a tasty, fruity table red, but I'd like it better for a few dollars less.

Stony Ridge non-vintage California Nebbiolo ($13.99)
Clear ruby color. Heady black-cherry and floral aromas and spicy oak. Bright wild-cherry fruit flavor and tart, lemony acidity at a level that's surprising in a California wine and hangs on in a medium finish. (Nov. 15, 1997)

All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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