Wine Tasting Report

I call my solution "the cranberry sauce principle." Cranberry sauce is a traditional condiment with turkey because it's both fruity and tart; so choose a wine with similar characteristics -- Beaujolais or Zinfandel if you want a red, or Riesling, Gewurztraminer or Chenin Blanc if you're inclined to a white.

We roasted a pre-Thanksgiving turkey last week and tried it - both hot from the oven and as leftovers - with a variety of red and white wines. The results substantiated the theory - two Beaujolais, a Vouvray and an Australian Riesling all worked reasonably well. But the Beaujolais stood out, making tasty, synergistic matches that went beyond merely washing down the food.

Domaine Diochon 1997 Moulin-à-Vent Cuvée Vieilles Vignes ($16.99)
Representing the luxury end of the Beaujolais scale, this fine red actually benefits from a bit of aging and is showing better now then when I last tasted it in January. Dark ruby in color, it breathes delicious blueberry and spice aromas and shows full, tart berry fruit and zippy acidity on the palate; dry and full, clean and lasting, it's a well structured and balanced wine. U.S. importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Nov. 12, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Working exactly like cranberry sauce with roast turkey, its bright fruit and snappy acidity make it a perfect match with both light and dark meat.

Beringer 1999 California "Nouveau" Red Table Wine ($7.59)
Clear reddish-purple, with forward aromas of candied strawberries and banana oil, leading into a very ripe berry and banana flavor, juicy and tart with a hint of sweetness. Bananas and a hint of bitter almond linger in the finish. Resembles the traditional Nouveau Beaujolais style of France, but more ripe, forward and grapey than most. (Nov. 14, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: The cranberry-sauce principle continues to hold; exuberant fruit and tart-sweet flavor improve our attitude toward leftover turkey, sliced and warmed in leftover gravy.

Marc Brédif 1996 Vouvray ($13.99)
Clear, pale straw color, with apple and pear aromas surrounded by earthy, musky Chenin Blanc fruit. Ripe and fresh, slightly sweet and very tart, evokes cooking apples with a slice of sharp Cheddar cheese. U.S. importer: Maisons, Marques et Domaines USA Inc., Oakland, Calif. (Nov. 12, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: The wine's piercing acidity makes it a good palate cleanser, but no particular flavor synergy occurs.

Leasingham 1996 Clare Valley (Australia) Riesling ($$7.59)
Clear, pale gold, with a markedly citric aroma, lime peel and apples and a whiff of the odd but pleasant "petrol" quality of older Riesling. Crisp fruit flavors mirror the aroma, fresh and clean; tart lemon-lime and muted "petrol" in a very long finish. Previously tasted a little over a year ago, it's showing interesting evolution and greater complexity. U.S. importer: International Cellars, Chantilly, Va. (Nov. 14, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: As with the Vouvray, it washes the palate clean and doesn't detract from the flavors, but for a match that sings, I'll stay with Beaujolais.

These wines were featured in The 30 Second Wine Advisor, my free weekly E-mail bulletin of quick wine tips, advice and tasting notes. Click here to join the E-mail list!

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