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Today's Wine Tasting Note

© Copyright 1997 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.


The Marches

The Italian province called "The Marches" (Marche) lies on the Adriatic across the peninsula from Rome. For a full-size map, see the Windows on Italy page.

The Italian province called "The Marches" (Marche), on the Adriatic coast across the peninsula from Rome, isn't widely known for its wines other than Verdicchio, a popular if simple white. But Rosso Cònero is a worthy exception to the rule; made from Montepulciano grapes and a distant cousin to Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, it's a giant step up from its neighbor and kin, making wines of real complexity and quality, like this:

Moroder 1990 "Dorico" Rosso Cònero ($14.99)
Inky dark ruby. Delicious black-cherry, aromatic cedar and herbaceous notes, "cigar-box" and caramel. Mouth-filling black fruit flavor with rosy floral nuances, built on a large structure of fresh-fruit acidity. Tannins aren't evident, but the size, fruit and balance suggest that this seven-year-old has plenty of life in it yet. Importer: Vinifera Imports Ltd., Ronkonkoma, N.Y. (Nov. 9, 1997)

This wine offers us another useful wine-tasting lesson: While it's not entirely different in nature from the Frescobaldi and Cecchi Chiantis I've reported on recent days, there's a perceptible difference in complexity, balance and style that justifies the $5 greater toll for this fine Cònero.

All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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