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The Italian province called "The Marches" (Marche) lies on the Adriatic across the peninsula from Rome. For a full-size map, see the Windows on Italy page.
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The Italian province called "The Marches" (Marche), on the Adriatic coast across the peninsula from Rome, isn't widely known for its wines other than Verdicchio, a popular if simple white. But Rosso Cònero is a worthy exception to the rule; made from Montepulciano grapes and a distant cousin to Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, it's a giant step up from its neighbor and kin, making wines of real complexity and quality, like this:
Moroder 1990 "Dorico" Rosso Cònero ($14.99)
Inky dark ruby. Delicious black-cherry, aromatic cedar and herbaceous notes, "cigar-box" and caramel. Mouth-filling black fruit flavor with rosy floral nuances, built on a large structure of fresh-fruit acidity. Tannins aren't evident, but the size, fruit and balance suggest that this seven-year-old has plenty of life in it yet. Importer: Vinifera Imports Ltd., Ronkonkoma, N.Y. (Nov. 9, 1997)
This wine offers us another useful wine-tasting lesson: While it's not entirely different in nature from the Frescobaldi and Cecchi Chiantis I've reported on recent days, there's a perceptible difference in complexity, balance and style that justifies the $5 greater toll for this fine Cònero.
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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores. |
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![[Image: Bunch of Grapes]](./graphics/grape444.gif)
