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Bodegas Montecillo 1995 Rioja Reserva ($18.99)
MontecilloClear, dark ruby, with rich blackberry jam and aromatic vanilla scents. Bright fruit and spicy oak make a mouth-filling flavor, full and tart; a load of simple fruit surrounded by a forest of sweet oak. U.S. importer: W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd., Harrison, N.Y. (Nov. 5, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: A fair match, if a little "red," for chicken and pancetta in a light sauce over pasta.
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