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Les Hauts de Montmirail 1998 Gigondas ($23.99)
MontmirailVery dark garnet, with forward aromas of black pepper, leather and black plummy fruit. Full-bodied and tart, juicy fruit flavors offer overtones of fragrant pepper and rough-edged tannins. A real mouth-full, accessible now - especially with rare beef - but will be better with a little cellar time. U.S. importer: New Castle Imports Inc., Myrtle Beach, S.C. (Oct. 26, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: A thick, grilled T-bone tames the tannins and sings with the peppery fruit.
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