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Taylor Fladgate
Taylor Fladgate 1995 Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Porto ($23.99/375 ml)
Inky dark garnet, almost black. A bit closed at first, but with time in the glass it opens up to black fruit and vinous alcohol with whiffs of anise. Much more forward in the flavor department, sweet black plums and aromatic licorice. Tart and tannic and a bit hot, as you'd expect of such a young Port; it's really silly to consume Vintage Port this young, but the ripe fruit makes it surprisingly accessible. U.S. importer: (label missing) Kobrand Corp., NYC. (Oct. 21, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: After-dinner sipping with a bite of Roquefort cheese.

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