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Ostertag Domaine Ostertag 1990 Fronholz (Alsace) Riesling ($19.95)
Clear, bright gold, with a powerful old-Riesling aroma of petrol, mangoes and caramel that bullies its way out of the glass like Jesse Ventura on the campaign trail. Big, voluptuous flavor, full and unctuous, consistent with the nose. A powerful and truly intense wine, saved from being overblown by its artful balance ... perhaps not so much a Ventura as a Nureyev. U.S. importer: Willett Distributing Co., Alexandria, Ky. (Oct. 18, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: A natural ethnic match with pork chunks braised in sauerkraut and dark beer.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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