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Bearitage Bearitage non-vintage California Red Table Wine ($8.99)
Made by the Sonoma firm Gundlach-Bundschu, this simple table wine demonstrates the fine quality that California wineries can achieve, when they make the effort, with relatively simple fruit and inexpensive wines. Dark ruby in color, it shows good dark fruit aromas defined by juicy black raisins. Tart-cherry and lemon-squirt flavors are structured and ripe, clean and consistent in a long finish. Remarkably good for an inexpensive, non-vintage table wine; it's a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel. (Oct. 17, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Makes a good match with a ham-and-Cheddar frittata.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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