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Weingut Gebhardt 1997er Sommerhäuser Öspiel (Franken) Silvaner Kabinett Trocken ($13.99)
Gebhardt Bottled in a Bocksbeutel, the traditional squat round bottle of Franconia (which, with a bit of Germanic ribaldry, is named after the part of the goat that goes over the fence last), this is a clear, bright-gold wine with fresh scents of apples and damp wool. Crisp and clean, appley fruit and very tart acid makes it a good companion with food. U.S. importer: Michael Skurnik Wines Inc., Syosset, N.Y.; a Terry Theise Selection. (Oct. 13, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: A natural with pork.

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